Emergency hood/bonnet release

[RJS]

Has any one ever installed one? More importantly, has any one ever needed one? 13 years with my car and no problems. But I've read about people having to butcher their hood to get them open after a release failure.

There are redundant emergency releases available. Just wondering if it is good insurance.

Thanks

Bob

 

[TR3driver]

I certainly needed one on the Stag. Cable broke right next to the latch mechanism.

Fortunately there is a factory procedure for the Stag, that involves cutting a hole in the inner fender. When I looked, the hole was already there.

For the TR6, I understand there is a way to go in through an existing hole in the firewall. Bit of a PITA, but at least you don't have to "butcher" anything.

 

[HarryL]

Put one on during the restoration of my 4A.
Thinking it was cheap insurance & it works.
Harry

 

[Adrio]

I put one in my TR4A. It was the all stainless steel version with just a short solid rod down into the cockpit. It became my main and only way of opening the bonnet. The original style cable became the backup. I would recommend getting it.

 

[DNK]

Bob- The question is When will it happen.
Cause it will and the problem is definitely worse than the cure.
Mine opened up a can of "while you're there"

 

[Geo Hahn]

On my TR4 I added a very simple one that works great. It is just a single cable coming in from the passengers footwell. I used a cable with a plastic T handle from the Help! section of the auto parts store though one could easily make the same thing from a length of cable and a simple handle.

The short length of cable goes into the same keeper as the stock cable. Not much bling in my design. You can see it is this picture:

On my TR4 there was an unused hole where that cable comes through (had a rubber plug in it. If you had to drill there a very small hole would be enough and the location is not precise.

The lever/rod type is the other commonly sold item though you have to be careful that the install doesn't allow the lever to over-run the tab it pulls on. Spent some time with a friend's TR when it did this as the lever slipping past the tab prevents the stock cable from opening the bonnet. Got it on the lift and managed to finagle it open with a broomstick.

 

[tmeinc1]

It's definitely worth it. It's cheap insurance, easy to install, and actually works better than the original. I use the emergency release more often because it's on the same side of the car as the secondary release, so you don't have to first release the hood and then walk around the car to lift it. Go for it.

 

[Gliderman8]

The emergency hood release was the FIRST thing I installed when I was doing the rebuild. As others have said, it is cheap insurance. On my TR6 there is a release rod that enters into the passenger compartment; reach under and pull down to operate the release.
I got mine from macysgarage.com

 

[Darrell_Walker]

I used the kit from Macy's Garage, but blinged it up a bit:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf...s-Garage-TR4-6-bonnet-release-kit-mini-review

 

[bobh]

They are easy to make. I made mine from a little piece of flat steel. Cut it with a hack saw, filed and drilled it. For the rod I used the stainless stiffener from an old windsheild wiper insert. Then drilled a hole down the center of the screw that holds the dash brace and fed the "rod" through the hole. I bent a small loop in the end in the footwell and put a 3/4" key ring on for me to pull. I'm like Tmeinc!. That's the only thing I use to release the hood. It's so much easier to pull.
If you have a lawn edger you could use an old blade for the steel. Other than having a drill press for drilling the screw all you need is basic hand tools.

Here's the plans I followed.

https://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/bonnet_release.pdf

The only difference between this and mine is I made the 3/8" X 1/4" long tab that moves the release lever longer and added a leg to the top so that there is a U shape surrounding the release lever. The idea was to eliminate having to reposition the emergency release if you pulled too far and it slipped off the release lever. I can still pull it too far, but you get used to how far to pull it after a few times.
Definitely a worthwhile purchase or DIY project.

BOBH

 

[RJS]

This is great. Thanks everyone. The emergency release has just been added to the top of my list.

Cheers

Bob

 

[sail]

I have the usual add on release but I like Geo's set up better.

 

[fpstude]

In the late '60s a fellow worker wanted to look at our TR4A to help him figure out how to open his hood because of a broken cable. He got his open. You'd think I would learn, but 45 years later I still have not installed a safety opener. One is sitting in a box on my workbench.

 

[sail]

I wouldn't come here to cry.

 

[cheseroo]

My first TR6 was a non-runner with a broken hood release cable. I read up on all the ways people have done it (removing RF headlight and using long stick, jacking car waaay up in the air and using a long stick, etc) and after failing on them, I decided on going through the heater hose entry hole. From the inside of the car you have to disconnect the hoses and drain the coolant. Since the flange that holds the heater pipes going through the firewall is screwed in from the engine side, you have to use pliers to unscrew the fasteners and let them fall in the engine bay. Then you push the pipes and hoses away from your little work area. You can then fish around for the release above the hole and try to get it to release. Since the positive terminal on the battery is in that general area, you don't want to use a metal poking stick. Unless it's not a big deal for you to do all that while standing on your head in the passenger footwell, I'd go for the emergency release.

 

[BobbyD]

I've had one in for 13 years and never use the stock one anymore........does that mean it's the emergency release now? :eagerness: I documented the whole install with full credit to Joe Cannon who designed the release. There are a couple of ways to get a TR6 hood open but the release proximity to the battery + terminal makes them all "risky"

 

[HerronScott]

Since the flange that holds the heater pipes going through the firewall is screwed in from the engine side, you have to use pliers to unscrew the fasteners and let them fall in the engine bay.

Wow, I'm impressed as that has to take patience *and* skill!.

Scott

 

[RJS]

OK, ordered kit last night.
Not sure why I never did this in the past 13 years!
Bob

 

[RJS]

Installed. Very nice easy project. I agree it works better than the original release and it is now my primary release.
Also, as for the stop, I found some very nice nickle plated wheel collars at the model airplane shop for $2. They slip over the release rod and keep it from pulling too far. They have a tiny little hex screw that tightens them against the rod.



Bob

 

[glemon]

I got the one from a small specialty TR entrepreneur, can't remember the name, anyway, agree with everyone else, even though I have driven Michellotti bodied TRs for a combined 20 years or so I have never had a broken cable, but the one on my TR250 is a hard pull. Anyway, simple install, shaft goes straight down to the passenger footwell, pulls so much easier, and you need to go over to that side to pull the safety catch anyway, so I use it as my primary release now.