can't drive a straight line

[Woodie]

I need help. What should I look for this weekend. I plan on getting into a garage and putting the car on ramps or axle stands. (oh yeah thanks for the answers re carb backfiring, thats solved, to lean by 1 1/2 flats in rear carb, smooth now...nice. )Why you ask. Well when accelerating at any time, from a dead stop , down shifting or even in 4th and just speeding up, the car moves to the right, noticeably enough that I must correct direction by steering left. Then once desired speed is reach I must then steer straight again. Today on the way home I was really paying attention to this rather than the traffic and it seemed to be the reverse when I slowed down or down shifted. Not as pronounced but on slowing down the car moved left and needed steering to the right to overcome.

What causes this? What should I look for?

I assume this is not normal. This is the second spring I have owned the car and it might have done it last year but I was just to excited to have an LBC again that I did not notice or if I did did not give it much thought.

You guys have helped with every other issue I've had with much success. So suggestions anyone. I update after I inspect on the weekend.

 

[spritenut]

You have either loose leaf spring nuts (4 each side directly under the axle) Or a broken leaf spring.

 

[Billm]

Look at your rear suspension system, your rear axle could be loose on one side and shifting during accel/deceleration. Another thing that you might look at is your shocks all around, I just refilled all four of mine and my car runs much better.
Bill

 

[Woodie]

ok I can check the nuts holding the leaf springs in place , and I can inspect the springs to see if they are sound.

Bill, hydraulic dampers. I read your post and flipped open my manual, section L it says fill with 20W20 oil. The diagram says clean around fill plug but does not illustrate where the fill plug is. Where and How do you fill them.

 

[Billm]

First-- Clean them and be careful not to get dirt inside--
-Then, over a big drip pan, loosen the 15/16" nut and carefully pull it and the spring that is on it out and put aside.
-Dump out the oil inside (move the lever back and forth to pump it out).
-Next remove those 6 (8?) screws holding on the plate on the other side and carefully remove the plate so that you don't tear the rubber gasket (might need to softly tap it with a plastic hammer or screwdriver handle to get it broken free).
-Dump out that oil and now make sure that everything moves freely and is strong and secure (lever doesn't wobble the wrong way)
-Refill the side with the plate and replace the plate and screws. Don't worry if the side is not completely full, it will fill a little bit later.
-Pour oil in the big threaded hole and slowly pump the lever up and down(it will spray out if you go too fast). Keep adding oil and pumping slowly until there are no more bubbles and the hole is full of oil, then carefully put the valve/spring guts back in and tighten. There will be oil everywhere but good/full shocks are worth the mess. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Bill

 

[Woodie]

got any pics. The manual has a diagram but not good . Do I take the dampers off the car to do this?

 

[jlaird]

And that folks needs to be added to the WIWI.

 

[Woodie]

ok Jack WIWI ???

 

[Baz]

LOL!
https://www.britishcarforum.com/tikiwiki/tiki-index.php

 

[Billm]

Yes- you do need to take the dampers off first but once you do it will be pretty easy to see everything.
Bill

 

[jlaird]

Look to your left, Site Links, WIWI.

Good place to stash all the tips, can even be modified as we go along.

 

[Woodie]

check this out,, a video on shocks

https://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/midget/shocks1vid.html

 

[Baz]

He is good, check all his videos.

 

[Woodie]

Thanks guys.
So I will check springs, for breakage, and mounted tight to car, and then remove and refill dampers. Sounds like a fun afternoon. Just Hope I find and correct the problem and that is is loose bolts or empty dampers and not a broken spring. It is probably easier than changing the transverse rear spring on a spitfire though. And who wants to have to park their car to wait for parts...NOT I !!

 

[jlaird]

Order your new shocks from Peter now and avoid the rush. LOL

 

[Bayless]

Jack, who is Peter? Is there a web page or something?

 

[Steve_Lawrence]

Peter is a regular here who rebuilds lever-shocks. He will probably pop in and introduce himself next time he is online.

 

[jlaird]

This is Peter, his prices are here and he is a nice guy to boot. Warnted never to leak. Call him, just as for Peter he owns the place.

https://www.nosimport.com/

 

[jcatnite]

Woodie,
This is probably too late but you should replace the bushings in the rear suspension as well. Not saying the shocks couldn't do with fresh oil because it will make a difference as many have said. But the bushings in the spring hangers dry and rot. When this happens they loose their cushioning effect and the springs float in them. This lets the axle housing shift when torque is applied and relieved. When I first got my '76, it would change lanes when I accelerated and decelerated. New bushings made more of a difference than shocks. Support the car by the tub and drop the axle with a floor jack. Replace the bushings with either poly or rubber, your choice. Assemble everthing a little more than finger tight and lower the car to the ground. This will let the bushings settle in. Then tighten every thing up. 80% of your torque steer problem will be corrected.
JC

 

[Joelb]

Woodie,
I have the same problem with my 79 Midget. I am going to replace all the bushings with poly and flush and refill my dampners. I will let you know how it changes the ride.