brake rotor replacement

[19_again]

I'll be changing out my old rotors soon, first time for me. Will I need a hub puller or other "special" tool?
Mike

 

[DrEntropy]

Brass drift for setting the bearing outer races in the hubs if you are replacing those too. Otherwise it's just a buncha bolts! An air impact gun is a really good tool to have for those four holding the rotor to the hub. Otherwise it'll be the monkey/football image for anyone observing.

 

[19_again]

Thanks Doc, I still don't have the scuba tank air compressor like your great rig, so it's time for Mickey's Monkey!! (Smokey Robinson) Bearings are new last summer, so they stay. I used the old races as a drift for the new, I just reversed them and it worked pretty slick.

 

[Sebring222]

Mike- Before you fit your new rotors take some brake cleaning fluid (aerosol type) and wipe down the rotors. They are coated with a preservative that keeps them from rusting before they are put into use. I would also recommend taking some 220 grit sandpaper and randomly scuff up the disc surfaces on both sides after wiping them down with the brake cleaning fluid. This will insure that the brakes will work well from the beginning and the pads will bed in quickly.

Jim D

 

[19_again]

Thanks Jim, I must admit I was pleasantly surprised to see the rotors from Standard Performance still looked so good after sitting in my garage for several months!! Now I know why. Will the scuffing of the pads substitute for the break-n process recommended by others of several slowing down starts and almost stops, or just aid in the process?
Mike

 

[DrEntropy]

It's an aid to the process, Mike. The pads also need to be "introduced" to the rotor surface, so a few decisive stops help. Not so hard you make things GLOW, tho. :wink:

 

[tony barnhill]

Agree with Jim D. on that one....put shiney rotors on.

& after you've "introduced" the pads to the rotor surface (like that term, Doc) & you've made all your stops going forward, just for the heck of it, make a few in reverse.

 

[19_again]

Got it! Thnaks guys.

 

[MGB922]

I've turned rotors before and if they have a circular pattern on the braking surface you should leave it alone just clean with brake cleaner. The circular cuts are from a disc sander on the layth and they aid in inital pad seating. Very important time for brakes is break-in. When you claen the rotors clean the entire rotor. Depending on how much corrotion preventative the factory put on them it will burn-off and the fumes can get back on the pads. I've gotten into painting rotors to keep them looking good longer. Takes time and a steady hand though.

 

[19_again]

Got a pic of a painted rotor?

 

[MGB922]

No I don't but many factories are doing it now. I got rotors for my toyota prius last year that where painted. They paint the rough surfaces only. So the braking surface and the mounting surfaces, wheel and hub, are left bare metel. This keeps them from rusting. I've used high temperature rustolium and it seemed to work fine. I also paint the non-matting surfaces of the calipers.

 

[maynard]

Be sure you clean the mouning surface on the hub before you put on the rotor. Rust or dirt can casue the rotor to be cocked and you will get pulsating.

 

[19_again]

Thank you Maynard, great tip!