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Frameman 1949
Freshman Member
Offline
After several days of attempts to bleed the brakes on a 100-6 that has undergone a complete brake parts replacement I finally achieved a good brake pedal feel.
I had tried the old manual method (fail), pressure bleeder attached at the master cylinder (fail), and trying different fluids (fail). I finally read a Haynes manual that described a bit of what I thought was an unconventional method. The manual said to first tighten the rear brake adjusters until it locked the drums, then to loosen the front adjusters all the way, then using the common two-person method of pumping and bleeding at each wheel. I added my own additional steps by clamping the two front flex hoses enough to stop flow to the front brakes. I then bled the rears and proceeded to the fronts releasing the clamp and bleeding the right front, reclamping it then unclamping the left an bleeding it. After removing the line clamps and properly adjusting all four brakes I was able to get a good pedal and do my happy dance
.
I can only surmise that completely loosening the front adjusters as per the manual allows the dual wheel cylinders to expanded and contract fully to expel trapped air. It worked.
I had tried the old manual method (fail), pressure bleeder attached at the master cylinder (fail), and trying different fluids (fail). I finally read a Haynes manual that described a bit of what I thought was an unconventional method. The manual said to first tighten the rear brake adjusters until it locked the drums, then to loosen the front adjusters all the way, then using the common two-person method of pumping and bleeding at each wheel. I added my own additional steps by clamping the two front flex hoses enough to stop flow to the front brakes. I then bled the rears and proceeded to the fronts releasing the clamp and bleeding the right front, reclamping it then unclamping the left an bleeding it. After removing the line clamps and properly adjusting all four brakes I was able to get a good pedal and do my happy dance
.I can only surmise that completely loosening the front adjusters as per the manual allows the dual wheel cylinders to expanded and contract fully to expel trapped air. It worked.
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