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An ammeter that uses a shunt resistor is not really an ammeter, it is a voltmeter that measures the volt drop over a low resistance, high current, resistor - typically 1 ohm or less. Then the voltage drop across the resitor is proportional to the current through it (V=IxR).
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This points out why a shunt type ammeter isn't used. With a 1 ohm resister and a mild current draw for the car's electricals of a modest 15 amps, there will be a voltage drop of 15 volts! Out of the 14 volts available, that doesn't leave much for the car /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Dropping the resister down to a 0.1 ohm resister would give a voltage drop of 1.5 volts, still too much to live with, what with dim lights, sluggish fans, etc. Droping down to a 0.01 ohm resister gets a little bit better, with a 0.15 volt drop. However, with this resister/voltage drop, you will need a voltmeter with a zero center and a +- range of 0 - 0.3 volts (allowing for a current draw of 30 amps under maximum alternator output). These are hard to find!
The ammeters typically used in an automobile are quite diferent. If you open up, for example, the ammeter from a TR6, you'll find nothing between the two terminals but a short piece of wire, approximately 12 gauge, curled into a single loop. The needle is completely isolated from this loop of wire, using only magnetic coupling to swing the needle. Trying to convert one of these into a shunt type ammeter is not a viable option. The only option would be to completely redesign the meter, totally replacing the guts with a new design, in effect, making it into the -0.3 - + 0.3 voltmeter described above.