2nd condenser in a short time.

[regularman]

I just had to replace another condenser today. Thats two of them that have gone bad. Its the ones with the orange wire, I can't remember if it was moss or VB that they came from but I need to buy a couple more for spares. Is there another option other than those two places? I just today got all done from where the truck backed into me and took it for a spin and just barely made it back home all jerking and backfiring. Replaced the condenser and it runs fine again. I almost got this car where I want it, still has a funny hesitation on light throttle when you are already moving. Like say when you let off the gas slightly for a curve and then ease back into it, it hesitates, but if you punch it, it smoothes out. Its like the timing is advancing too quickly. I have the DGV and the force pump shoots plenty of gas.

 

[drooartz]

Advance Distributor has good quality sets.

 

[Midget78]

Do you have a fuel regulator in the fuel circuit to see what pressure your running. I think you have the Weber DGV? Mine had to be setup at 3.5 lbs for it to run smooth.

 

[regularman]

Do you have a fuel regulator in the fuel circuit to see what pressure your running. I think you have the Weber DGV? Mine had to be setup at 3.5 lbs for it to run smooth.

I got one but it never seemed to help anything when I put it on. Here is the thing right now. Perfect Idle, perfect from take off with no hint of a hesitation, The only time I have this is at highway speed when I ease off the gas and then ease back into it. If I give it the gas just a bit harder then it picks right up. Its usually in 5th gear at about 2000rpms. I have put the dgv on about every 4 cylinder car I have had as a toy and it did well. But this 1275 is much smaller and this seems to be at the point between the idle circuit taking over and the main jet circuit taking over. I am trying to find info on this.

 

[regularman]

Ah ha. I found this little jewel.
https://www.bradleyrestoration.com/techni..._of_the_dg.html
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]When installed on an MGB, DGVs are notorious for an<span style="font-weight: bold"> off-idle "stumble" or "dead spot"</span> and a slight hesitation when accelerating quickly.

<span style="font-weight: bold">The first is caused by the progression, or off-idle circuit, giving up before the main venturi starts to supply fuel. This is solely an effect of less air being drawn in at low RPMS by a smaller engine that carb is expecting.</span> We will fix this by extending the effective range of the progression circuit to the point where enough air is being pulled in that the main venturi will take over.[/QUOTE] Wow, this looks like my problem. With the 3.55 gear and in 5th gear, my rpms are pretty low. He has the whole how to fix it thing on the next few pages. :thumbsup:

 

[Sarastro]

Regarding the condensor (AKA capacitor): has anyone simply tried an electronic one? According to my Haynes manual, (or someplace else where I found this info; I'm away from home now so I can't recheck it) it should be 0.25 microfarad, probably 500 volts or greater is enough. You can get this from any electronic supplier; my favorite is digikey.com. Just connect one end to the coil terminal that goes to the points; the other to chassis ground; you don't have to mount it in the distributor like the conventional one. It will be necessary to add wire and to mount it sensibly so it doesn't vibrate and crack the (unfortunately) solid wires that these things use, and doesn't short-circuit. It seems to me that if these things really are dying, using a good quality electronic capacitor is an obvious fix.

By the way, I'll repeat my offer: if someone would send me any of these that have failed, I'll do (1) a check to make sure it really did, and (2) a postmortem to see just what is going on. Send to PO Box 7284, Long Beach, CA 90807.

 

[regularman]

Regarding the condensor (AKA capacitor): has anyone simply tried an electronic one? According to my Haynes manual, (or someplace else where I found this info; I'm away from home now so I can't recheck it) it should be 0.25 microfarad, probably 500 volts or greater is enough. You can get this from any electronic supplier; my favorite is digikey.com. Just connect one end to the coil terminal that goes to the points; the other to chassis ground; you don't have to mount it in the distributor like the conventional one. It will be necessary to add wire and to mount it sensibly so it doesn't vibrate and crack the (unfortunately) solid wires that these things use, and doesn't short-circuit. It seems to me that if these things really are dying, using a good quality electronic capacitor is an obvious fix.

By the way, I'll repeat my offer: if someone would send me any of these that have failed, I'll do (1) a check to make sure it really did, and (2) a postmortem to see just what is going on. Send to PO Box 7284, Long Beach, CA 90807.

I would have sent you mine but I yanked the wire out of it with anger :wink: I tried everything else, filing points, etc and then replaced the condenser and it fixed the problem. I worked in electronics a while and the best way to is to replace a cap with a known good one. Testers do not always work in the range and load that the actual cap is in. I had two go bad in very few miles in each. I never had this problem on other cars and it was a rarity that a condenser failed like that.

 

[spritenut]

Watch anything electrical that comes from India, Throw it out before you install it. Condensers, rotors, regulators, ignition switches, and light bulbs and sockets.
This saves aggravation and road side breakdowns.

 

[Timd]

Do your points last once the condenser goes? Or would they eventually melt if you put on 500 or so miles? My car used to have the performance you are describing, but I would never replace the condenser alone, I always replaced the points aswell. After a while, it got so bad that the points would only last about 500 miles and then they would heat up to the point that the plastic would melt and they would close.

After about 4 years of owning the car, I replaced the coil. The car went from a sputtering, misfiring mess, to a car that NEVER misfires and I currently am about 4000 miles into my current set of points (and condenser). My car also used to always start, pull and idle fine, but at some speeds it was a mess. I'm not saying it's your coil, but if you've got a spare to try out.... It may make a world of difference.

FYI: I buy my points+condensers from VB.

 

[Sarastro]

Ah, well, if you can easily pull the wire out, that says quite a lot.

I can definitively check capacitors, no problem at all. If anyone is willing to send me failed ones, I can figure out exactly what's going on.

Tim, if the capacitor is bad, the points definitely will fail eventually. As for the coil causing a capacitor to fail, that's an interesting question. I can't see how it could, but that doesn't mean it couldn't.

 

[Pythias]

Regarding the condensor (AKA capacitor): has anyone simply tried an electronic one?

Peter the Parts Pimp (www.nosimports.com) "hogs out" (his term) a stock one, inserts electronics and Bob's your uncle. He also puts an LED on top so that you can do static timing. He had some at LotO and at that time said that he had over 50,000 miles on a set of points that were showing no wear in his Mini.

 

[regularman]

Regarding the condensor (AKA capacitor): has anyone simply tried an electronic one?

Peter the Parts Pimp (www.nosimports.com) "hogs out" (his term) a stock one, inserts electronics and Bob's your uncle. He also puts an LED on top so that you can do static timing. He had some at LotO and at that time said that he had over 50,000 miles on a set of points that were showing no wear in his Mini.

What size cap does he use?

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Kim,

Check your mail. I sent over info that Peter C. sent me on this modification.

 

[regularman]

Kim,

Check your mail. I sent over info that Peter C. sent me on this modification.

Will do Jim, thanks.