Re: Vander plas is freaking me out!
Most of the stuff you mention is an easy fix.
1. Could be pads -- could be accumulator. Easy way to check the accumulator is to run the car, then shut it off. Pump the pedal and count how many pumps it takes before it gets hard. Anything less than 12-15 means the accumulator is going/gone. It is an easy replacement. When you lift the bonnet, it is the black ball about the size of a softball near the fire wall. If it is pads, then pads are and easy change as well. Get to the caliper, open the bleed valve, push the old pads apart so that the pistons move back to accommodate the new thicker pads. Put in the new pads and re-assemble. THREE words of caution here. 1. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES push the old pads/pistons back with out opening the bleed valve. If you push old fluid back into the ABS valve you may have created more problems than you care to think about. 2. If you change the pads and you get a shimmy when you hit the pedal, you may need to replace the rotors as well. In fact, I replace the rotors as a matter of procedure anyway. They are only $40 a rotor and there is not enough metal on them to turn them down and finally, 3. Flush the entire brake fluid from the car. USE ONLY DOT 4 fluid. Start at the furthest point. You will see an amber fluid come out at first. Bleed until it gets clear and all the air is out. Do this on all 4 wheels.
Number 2 and 3 are the same problem. The Bulb Failure module is sending phony signals back to the computer. This is primarily on your directional which is why the blinker runs fast and the directionals still work. You need to go through the entire car and clean the base of the bulbs. I usually use a light sand paper and just take off a layer of corrosion. I then use a wire brush on the socket. Many owners of these cars recommend using ONLY the European style silver base bulbs. I am not sure if it matters. Once all the bulbs and sockets are clean, the problem should go away.
4. The check engine light usually means it is the O2 sensor. It is about a $45-$50 dollar sensor off the exhaust manifold that goes bad over a period of time. It is no big deal, but it should be replaced as it DOES effect the running of the car as the computer uses this sensor to measure the mixture of Oxygen in the exhaust to regulate the combustion.
ALL of the problems you a having are normal in an 11 year old car and none are serious.
Take a weekend and fix them one by one.
Cheers