TR6 Stuck again. TR6 axel removal

J

jackag91

Jedi Warrior

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• Jan 29, 2007

• #1

Thanks for all of the help. I got the diff off and following the Bentely instructions, I removed the 6 nuts holding the rear axels on the trailing arms.

Am I missing something else, because these things will not budge? I figured I would ask before I started beating on things.

 

T

Tinster

Guest

Guest

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• Jan 29, 2007

• #2

Jack,

Not real sure what you are trying to do.
See if this photo is of any help to you.

regards,

d

https://rides.webshots.com/photo/2286320120085748235ImtXOk

 

G

Guest

Guest

Guest

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• Jan 29, 2007

• #3

You removed the six nuts behind the hub that you need to put a socket through one of the two holes drilled therein for, right? Leaving it resting on 6 small studs? If so it should just pull off.

As a caveat, it's usually quicker and easier to seperate the halfshaft into two by umwrapping the boot at one side.

 

OP

J

jackag91

Jedi Warrior

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• Jan 29, 2007

• #4

Thanks,

Yeah Alana, I removed the 6 nuts that I needed to use a socket through the two holes. It still wont budge...I guess I will will try banging on it with a dead blow mallet, unless I hear otherwise.

 

TR6oldtimer

Darth Vader

Offline

• Jan 29, 2007

• #5

It is a close fit. I have had to use a little persuasion from time to time. Just tap all around on the backing plate as close to the trailing arm as you can. A little wiggling and it should work off.

Ray

 

G

Guest

Guest

Guest

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• Jan 29, 2007

• #6

jackag91 said:

Thanks,

Yeah Alana, I removed the 6 nuts that I needed to use a socket through the two holes. It still wont budge...I guess I will will try banging on it with a dead blow mallet, unless I hear otherwise.

Click to expand...

Are you referring to those 6 studs that are sunk into the aluminum trailing arm? Beware, Triumph, in all their wisdom, sunk fine-threaded studs into aluminum, not the smartest thing to do. The fine threads don't "bite" very well. I removed all mine and HeliCoiled the holes; HeliCoil will make a course threaded hole that the coil bites into, and leaves a better grip for the stud. Not sure if I didn't actually change to #8 bolts in this application, instead of studs and nuts.

The DPO had actually JBWelded them in. Weak link indeed.

 

OP

J

jackag91

Jedi Warrior

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• Jan 30, 2007

• #7

Bill, Funny you should say that. Two of my studs were replaced with bolts. I don't htink they were helicoiled. Maybe someone just broke a stud off and was too cheap to replace it.

Funny thing is my 1975 front end for my triumph bike has course threads on the studs at the end of the fork tubes.

 

T

Tinster

Guest

Guest

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• Jan 30, 2007

• #8

Jack,

You should be able to get it loosened by
lightly tapping around the plate with a small
hammer.. Tap it like you tighten lug nuts- cross
circle. Try to wiggle it between taps.

Eventually it will move.

d

 

G

gjh2007

Jedi Warrior

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• Jan 30, 2007

• #9

I'm trying to think here (smell of wood burning) Can you bolt up the wheel & grab it on each side & rock to get some leverage & or wack the tire with a dead blow?

This is a good trick to get those rear brake drums off.

 

OP

J

jackag91

Jedi Warrior

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• Jan 30, 2007

• #10

Thanks for all of the help. I got it off. I sprayed it down with penatrating oil last night and gave it a few good wacks with a rubber mallet.

Only problem now is one of the trailing arms has a chunk missing out of it.

 

Twosheds

Darth Vader

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• Jan 30, 2007

• #11

Congratulations!

Let us never forget

The Holy Trinity of Getting Stuck Parts Free:

The Hammer

The Torch

And The Aero Kroil

 

G

Guest

Guest

Guest

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• Jan 30, 2007

• #12

jackag91 said:

Only problem now is one of the trailing arms has a chunk missing out of it.

Click to expand...

Uh, where exactly is that chunk out of? That don't sound good.
Got a picture?