TR2/3/3A TR3 Rear Body Damage

[mallard]

The 56 TR3 that I'm restoring was hit in the left rear were the overrider would be. After spending 3 hours with a hammer and other tools I think I'm getting close to the right shape. My question is about the profile of the curve between the spare tire cover and the edge of the fender. I made numerous templates of the good right side and they are off by about 1/4" from the left. When the factory stamped the rear trunk panel were the two sides exactly the same? The curve on the upper part of the area does not look like it has been damaged but it is not the same. I'm going to try to attach some pictures of the area but I have not had much luck with pictures yet. I can't seem to be able to attach more than one picture.

 

[Tinkerman]

Mallard, when you say that they are off by 1/4", how do you mean that. I'm sitting here looking at my rear panel and both sides look the same. I have attached a picture of my left rear panel and included measurements. both of mine are the same.

Hope this helps. I can take more pictures and more measurments and 3email them to you but I have to know where you are measuring. The important thing is that the rear fenders fit!

Cheers, Tinkerman

 

[TR3driver]

The early bodies did tend to be somewhat asymmetrical. Later ones (especially after the tooling was replaced at TS60,000) were much better, but still a long way from perfect.

We had a speaker at the club meeting once who had visited the factory 'back when'. I've forgotten his name, but I'll always remember him talking about the hammers that were everywhere. Big ones, little ones, funny shaped ones ... the workers literally beat on any piece that didn't fit until it did fit.

He also talked about watching a worker drill holes in the frame, with no template, no markings, no measurements of any kind. Not so much as a center punch to keep the drill bit from walking around, just poke a hole in the general area, then move on to the next one.

Wow, looking that good after only 3 hours ... you're a better body man than I, Gunga Din!
Generally by then, I've thrown the hammer through the window and gone inside for a cold one

 

[mallard]

The fender will fit fine, the edge needs more work but the shape is good. The problem area is with curve behind the overrider. The picture shows the template up against the body with the gap showing. I would not be happy with this difference between the two sides. it looks like a tuff fix.

 

[prb51]

Keith...hope these help, if you want a specific angle just ask.



https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01244.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01245.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01246.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01247.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01248.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01249.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01250.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01251.jpg

 

[mallard]

Thank you Dick and Pat for the great pictures. It seems that my car is going to need more hammering. The curve on the left side is to deep. It's stange to see what happens to metal when it takes a hit. The upper part of the curve feels so smooth but it still may have distorted. O well I hope the neighbors will put up with another day of hammering without turning me into the HOA.

 

[crj7driver]

I think the metal in that area has stretched so you will need to shrink it. I attempt all my own body work but when it comes to shrinking metal I leave to the professionals just because once you heat the metal and quench it (one technique for shrinking as I am sure you know) the metal is more rigid and will create problems if not done correctly.

If you know of another way I would love to hear of the results/technique.

 

[CraigLandrum]

I'm not even close to a bodywork guy, but if I recall correctly there is a "shrinking hammer" that looks like a meat tenderizer - instead of a flat head, the head has a bunch of triangular protrusions thatstick up 1/32 to 1/16 or so. Never used one, but did bang out some sheet metal as you have done.

 

[mallard]

Thanks everybody for the pictures and ideas. I'm going to look at a few cars next weekend to determine what my next step is going to be. I made so much noise last week that I may give it some time before we start hammering again. Thanks again.

 

[MDCanaday]

In the very recent past we repaired worse damage than this on a 3 by carefull drilling of the welds on the close-out panel,removing it to access the area behind the bumperette.This also lets you work that nasty little under panel and treat the metal worms that hide in this spot from the factory!!When you have this panel off put fresh nuts in the cages that hold the rear edge of the fender...its good Karma
MD(mad dog)