the mysterious e-type ingnition light

[baldytheanimator]

I've owned my first E-type, a 1969 red FHC, for six months...

Over the course of that time, I've been confused by my ignition light. It's been known to pop on, pop off and pop on again while I'm driving...sometimes with comical randomness.

Slowly, the condition has gotten worse...now the ignition light is on at almost all times when I drive.

According to my owner's manual, this means that I'm not recharging my battery--nevertheless, a quick trip to the gas station shows that my battery has seemingly not been losing any of its charge at a faster rate.

Has the ignition light been signalling me that my alternator is slowly going?

P.S.--Admittedly, the car has had trouble starting cold...it needs some coaxing to turn over. The longer it rests, the more coaxing it needs...

What tests could I/my mechanic perform to verify what's up with that little light, and my cold startup problems?

Thanks for your expertise,...

All this typing makes me thirsty...

 

[Basil]

Hi, long time no see! Well, for starters, check the connections on your Battery, the other end of the battery ground (negative) connection, the alternator connections and make sure the flat plug is firmly on the regulator (The regulator is located just below the Heater blower motor). (Take the Regulator plug off and clean the blade-type contacts on it with a pencil eraser). If that doesn't help, you can easily have your alternator checked by taking it off and having it tested (Auto Zone or Pep Boys can do this for you if you take the alternator to them). If the Alternator checks out, the next thing to suspect would be the Regulator. It's the small box located under the Heater blower motor.

Good luck,
Basil

 

[piman]

Hello BTA,

This can be misleading, as it can be overcharging as well as undercharging. As Basil suggests, get it checked out because if it is overcharging you will boil the battery dry and need to replace it.
Quick check, look at the battery and does it smell 'acidy', if so you are overcharging. I had exactly the same on my Triumph, changed the alternator (Integral regulator) cured the fault.
People slag off Lucas but I'm not complaining when I get a new alternator exchange for £30 ($45)approx.

Alec, me too

 

[66 fhc]

Unless you know your battery is new, I'd Do everything Basil mentioned and also replace the battery . These origional starters draw a lot of current which will reduce the spark your coil puts out if your battery is even marginal. That may explain your problem with slow starting. By the way,
I'm a native of Pasadena and my family still lives there. What part do you live in? I grew up near Chapman woods.
Good luck Scott

 

[Lee]

If the problem persists after trying the remedies suggested by the other guys, have a look at the alternator field relay. You can test it by checking the alternator field terminal for the presence of 12 volts when the ignition light is on. If no field voltage is present the alternator won't be charging; try swapping the horn relay with the field relay (both are located just behind the left front wheel on the inner fender, one above the other); they are the same part number. If the problem goes away, repair or replacement of the relay is indicated.

On my '70 E Series II, I had the same problem; found that the fiber base to which the relay coil and contacts are mounted had warped owing to getting wet, and though the relay was "pulling in", the contacts weren't closing. I dismantled it, clamped the base down flat to my workbench, and soaked it with water. After it dried (flat) it worked fine...saved about $30 for a new one.

 

[baldytheanimator]

Thanks, gentlemen!

Unfortunately as of yet I do not have a response regarding whose prognosis is correct. This past Sunday was 'spa day' for the ol' girl, so I spent all my time washing/waxing/conditioning inside and out. Saturday was an oil change, so I haven't gotten to your experiments yet...I'll keep you updated...

Regarding my starting problems, I think you may be correct Scott. My mechanic felt the problems could be solved with a choke adjustment, but the next morning the problem was worse than ever--I'll try your approach with a new battery next.

Originally I'm from Wisconsin, but moved to Pasadena about seven years ago to work in cartoons, hence half the moniker. And Chapman Woods...I don't know where that is, actually...I'm located right next to Caltech, just off Lake Avenue.

Now I can't let you get ahead of me, Alec, so

 

[baldytheanimator]

Thanks, gentlemen!

Unfortunately as of yet I do not have a response regarding whose prognosis is correct. This past Sunday was 'spa day' for the ol' girl, so I spent all my time washing/waxing/conditioning inside and out. Saturday was an oil change, so I haven't gotten to your experiments yet...I'll keep you updated...

Regarding my starting problems, I think you may be correct Scott. My mechanic felt the problems could be solved with a choke adjustment, but the next morning the problem was worse than ever--I'll try your approach with a new battery next.

Originally I'm from Wisconsin, but moved to Pasadena about seven years ago to work in cartoons, hence half the moniker. And Chapman Woods...I don't know where that is, actually...I'm located right next to Caltech, just off Lake Avenue.

Now I can't let you get ahead of me, Alec, so

 

[66 fhc]

At the other end of San Pasqual st. between Rosmead and San Gabriel Blvds. You live very near my mom .She's near Del Mar and Oakland ave.
Very pretty part of the city. Do you own one of those old homes in that area?

 

[Jeb]

You may also want to check the accursed 3AW warning light thingie that looks like a flasher unit on the bulhead behind and above the battery.

They get corroded and disintegrate and will drive you nuts.

Obviously the first thing you should do is check the rate of charge with an external machine of some sort.

A voltmeter is a good start but what they call an AVR tester that can load the charging system is best.

Once you have established whether or not it charges, then fix!

Cheers,

Jeb

 

[John S Farrington]

You can easily check the alternator and voltage regulator with a voltmeter. Connect the meter to your battery with the car running (positive to positive and negative to negative) If you read about 13.5 to 14 volts, your system is charging. Now turn on high beams and any other electrical components that are handy. You should not see an appreciable drop. If these conditions are not met, you have an alternator or regulator problem. Your ignition light problem could be caused by the component near the voltage regulator that looks like an old style relay. It is a special purpose component that turns this light on when the system is not charging.
The best fix if you have a voltage regulator or alternator problem is to upgrade to a Jaguar XJ6 series 3 alternator with built in regulator and ignition light control. The mechanical fit is a dropin, the Lucas component is a good one and looks authentic to the Etype and you dont have to use the external old fashioned voltage regulator. Your wiring is also greatly simplified in your Etype and the system will be reliable. Be glad to answer questions about this conversion. It has been totally reliable in my series 2 Etype.
Best Regards, Jack Farrington