Sealing exhaust pipe junction

[Nelson]

I have an exhaust leak at the junction of my header pipes with the pipe that goes back to the muffler. I have tightened the clamps as tight as they will go but I see that there is still some discoloration that indicates an imperfect seal. Is there some kind of goop or whatever that can go on the inner pipe and allow a seal but still remove the pipes at a later date? Or is there another way to get the clamps a tad tighter? I have them right at the end of the pipe so the slotted areas are compressed as much as possible.

 

[racingenglishcars]

Don't worry about taking them apart again. Even still Gun-gum can come apart with a small hammer.

 

[Gerard]

Nelson,

One trick is to lubricate the clamp with some oil. I think it allows the pipe to draw up tighter if it can slip rather than be cinched by the clamp. If you've made some dents in the pipe, this technique might have limited success.

I have tried a couple techniques of my own that have worked for me in the past. I've used hight temperature RTV (Permatex Copper) to seal the annoying little leaks that you can never seem to seal.

 

[DrEntropy]

I'm with Donn here: Holt's Gun Gum. And a bit of lube on the "lip" of header and downpipe as Gerard explained.

The best answer I ever found is to get a set of tube headers, tho. :wink:

 

[Nelson]

I have the exhaust from the header back,off the car now so I'll try these suggestions when I put it back. Right now I'm working on installing a Panhard bar and had to remove the exhaust to drill mounting holes.

 

[jlaird]

Hear is how.

Get a tube of exhaust sealant from your friendly auto store. Is white in color.

With joint open put a bead of sealant around the inside of the exhaust pipe. Carefully push it on the header and attach the clamp with out moving anything.

Let joint dry overnite. You can even change the engine without removing that joint but loosing the clamp will allow it to fall apart.

Have used this trick since 1964, has never failed to work.

 

[mxp01]

This is what I did.

As usual, Jack is the man.

Mike Pennell
Nassau, the Bahamas

 

[KeithN60]

Nelson just be glad it (the clamp) was not welded to the exaust pipe like mine was Im guessing it had a leak too.Ill remember this tip when reinstalling mine.

 

[bug_sixty]

I had a muffler shop put flanges on both ends and simply bolt them together with gasket between. Works great when you want to remove the exaust for whatever reason

 

[bug_sixty]

oh! and the header last longer... no more cutting and welding etc.. later on when the exaust expires...

 

[jlaird]

Cutting, welding. I have never and I have had the engine out with and without removal of the exhaust pipe where it is affixed to the header.

 

[scoutll]

In addition to using a little bit of exhaust sealer, take a jack and put it under the pipe directly beneath where it make the curve up to the manifold. Align the pipe with the manifold and jack until the pipe is nice and snug against the manifold, but not enough to stress or bend things. Put the clamp on and tighten it down. An old trick and surprisingly effective.

 

[jlaird]

I can vote for that.

 

[bug_sixty]

well.. the exhaust I had designed runs up and over the rear axle. The flanges are at the end the the header and the start of the exhaust pipe. They serve as a means to change out the exhaust system without touching the header. I don't have to do anything when removing the engine except pull the header away from the studs. The exhaust simply hangs under its own weight when dislodge from the head.

 

[jlaird]

I don't have to do anything when removing the engine except pull the header away from the studs. The exhaust simply hangs under its own weight when dislodge from the head.

Yep, one of those little things we learn over the years to make life a bit easier.