TR2/3/3A Lockheed brake system

[sp53]

Well I tried to beat the cold and started looking and working on the Lockheed brakes in a heated section of my garage system. The old Lockheed brake system is something I never had. I guess I am hoping someone has a crystal ball and can tell me if I should buy new or rebuild this one. The master cylinder is a bit if a coruscation, but I am getting it apart slowly by separating the holding bracket and master cylinder itself. It looks like both parts are available new. If I get it apart to see inside the bores, I will understand more, maybe.

steve

 

[CJD]

You can buy them new, but the number of screws holding the top on the repros is wrong. If I remember, the original has 4 and the repro has 5. You also need an adapter for one of the lines. The original will likely have pitting, in which case you can send it off to have it sleeved and rebuilt. That's what I did. It even sat for 4 years before I installed it, but it still pumped up and is working fine. The sleeving and rebuilding will likely cost about double what a repro runs...so it depends on whether you want a driver or the original look.

 

[Hamish Racing]

Always try an keep the original. And resleeving is a good option.
so many repo parts are questionable even on critical safety parts like these. I don’t know why the classic car fraternity puts up with it ? Cost I guess !

 

[mgedit]

I agree … had my original resleeved/rebuilt. Cheers, Mike

 

[auprichard]

A word of caution: I sent the master cylinder from my TR2 off to an east coast business with what was meant to have a great reputation. It came back and it leaked. I sent it back and it came back leaking again. Since they required me to use DOT 3/4 my new paint was damaged.

 

[mgedit]

I used DOT 5 in mine after resleeve/rebuild, and several years in, no issues. However, instructions do say to use only 3/4.

 

[CJD]

They told me there would be no warranty if I used silicone fluid. I did anyway and, at year 5 of use...and year 9 since the rebuild, still not problem at all. I do change the fluid annually with the oil change, though. But then, I change the tranny and diff fluid annually too.

 

[sp53]

I called Apple hydraulics and talked with them about a tr2 master cylinder. They basically said we can fix it if the case is not cracked and if it is we have cores for 130.00. The master cylinder on the 1955 is a key component for originality along with the drum brakes in the front, so I want to keep a stock master cylinder in the car plus the brake lines are routed different than a tr3a. The restoration will take years, so I do what I can, when and where I can, as I move forward.

Some of the stuff for the older master cylinder is expensive for what you get. The rods and forks for the cylinders are 109.00 each which is unreasonable in my view, but at least they are available. If anyone is using one for a door stop, please give a call.

steve