T-Series Leaky Clutch Slave Removal

[jjbunn]

I have a leaky clutch slave cylinder, which I need to remove. I cannot budge either of the two bolts that are holding it on. I've sprayed WD40 liberally on them, but they are so tight.

Any tips on how to free them would be appreciated

 

[danc]

Try "P.B. Blaster"

 

[tony barnhill]

Yep, WD-40 won't do anything except remove the moisture - PB Blaster will penetrate the threads & help loosen them.

 

[DrEntropy]

Let it soak and keep applying the Blaster. As much as one or two days' worth.

 

[sparkydave]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif PB Blaster is way better than WD-40.

 

[Monark192]

Julian, luckily for me, you seem to be about 5 days ahead of my project schedule. My clutch slave is on my Sunday to do list having just completed both clutch and brake masters. So, keep asking questions and I can keep making notes of upcoming problems!

 

[jjbunn]

[ QUOTE ]
Julian, luckily for me, you seem to be about 5 days ahead of my project schedule. My clutch slave is on my Sunday to do list having just completed both clutch and brake masters. So, keep asking questions and I can keep making notes of upcoming problems!

[/ QUOTE ]

Chuckle. Will do! The Fuel Pump discovery may knock my schedule off a bit. Also, I need to order a clutch slave rebuild kit.

 

[David64MGB]

While we are on the topic. The slave cylinder has two metal rings to restrain the boot to the slave cylinder. One is on the inside clamping the boot to the push rod and one is on the outside clamping the boot to the cylinder. I am missing the inside one and the rebuild kit does not include these rings. Does anyone have any suggestions to a method of clamping the inside of the boot?

Thanks,

 

[DrEntropy]

Small tie wrap.

Do I get a tip?!? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

 

[David64MGB]

I guess that makes sense. It should last as long as the boot.

Thanks,

 

[jjbunn]

So the PB Blaster did the trick: great stuff!

I removed the slave (it does not have any metal rings to secure the boot ... maybe these rings were on earlier models?), cleaned it up, replaced the rubber parts with the rebuild kit I got from Moss, and re-installed.

After some bleeding, it works nicely: the pushrod gets moved and there are no leaks in the system.

However, I cannot select gears. How much travel should there be on the pushrod, between clutch pedal released and clutch pedal completely depressed? How can I tell if the clutch is actually moving?

Thanks!

 

[DrEntropy]

Julian, if the fork moves the same distance at the fork pushrod at each "stab" on the pedal, the clutch plate may be rusted to the flywheel... Be *SURE* the hydraulics are moving the rod the same distance from the first push to the third one... if that's so you need to break the "rust bond" between the pressure plate and the flywheel. First go should be to put the car on a level surface... With someone in the drivers' seat and the clutch depressed, the box in second or third gear, a "second crew" should shove the car forward and backward untill it "ThUnKs" and rolls freely. This is an indication the rusty pressure plate has released from the rusty driven plate.

An alternate method is to warm the engine to "normal" temp, turn it off, put the tranny into first and with the clutch depressed, try to start the engine. An OBVIOUS caveat is to be sure there's NOTHING in front of the car when attempting this maneuver! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jjbunn]

Hi DrEntropy,

Thanks ... the car is up in the air on jacks, so I suppose the alternative method you suggested would be the best, right?

 

[DrEntropy]

Almost: there's no "load" onna rear wheels while her butt is up inna air... the idea is to "load" the driveline with only the rust as the "coupling" for the engine to spin against. That way the rust (as the "weakest link") will/should "fail" and all should go back to 'normal'.

 

[jjbunn]

So when I sit in the car with the engine off, leaving the clutch pedal alone, I can move the gearstick into all the gears: I can feel it engaging. The clutch pedal makes no difference.

With the engine running, I cannot select a gear without a nasty grinding noise (like I'm crashing the gears).

Does this still sound like possible rust as described?

I'm a real novice when it comes to gears and clutches, as you can maybe tell!

 

[DrEntropy]

That sounds like the "classic" description of the condition, yes.

 

[jjbunn]

Wow! That fixed it ... I warmed the engine up, then turned it off, then I selected first gear, depressed the clutch, and started the engine. The wheel spun away merrily at the rear! I was then able to select all the other gears, except reverse, which for some reason I had trouble with.

Many thanks for the help with this.

 

[DrEntropy]

It ain't over yet, methinks... You need to do it again, and while in third, push in the clutch and HAMMER the brake... That should break it loose.

 

[jjbunn]

Ah, OK ... that pushes getting the brakes bled to the top of the list

 

[jjbunn]

Clutch slave refitted, with new boot and seals etc..