clutch slave cylinder?

[mtlman8]

Does anyone have a photo of where the rod goes into the cylinder? when rebuilding mine it looks like someone cut,welded and ground down the end of it... should it look the same as the master cylinders? (rounded head with a washer that does not slip off)any info would help. THANX.oh yah 67 tr4a ...duh!

 

[TR3driver]

Sorry, I don't have a photo that shows that. But there is no rounded head, no washer, no circlip. The end of the factory rod is just rounded, no larger than the shaft. And only the resistance from the clutch keeps the whole thing from coming apart.

 

[mtlman8]

thanks randall, Thats what I thought, but I think a previous owner added some weld to build it up because its adjusted all the way out and its a real crappy weld job... I think i'll just reweld it grind and polish it CORRECTLY! THANX.

 

[TR3driver]

FWIW, not being a welder, I found it easier to just fabricate a new one. Started with some plain 5/16" rod from the hardware store, ran a 5/16NF die down one end, then cut to length and ground a radius on the other end.

In my case, the root cause turned out to be a broken taper pin; but I limped by for a year or more with the longer pushrod. The tip of the broken pin was jammed between the fork & shaft, so the clutch still worked even though the lever was farther to the rear than it's normal position.

 

[mtlman8]

did you use stainless steel or mild steel? I can buy a ss threaded rod and round and polish it.

 

[TR3driver]

I used ordinary mild steel, but no reason SS wouldn't work.