Clutch slave cylinder question. Help!

[Slider748]

After a great drive, I parked my TR6 and came out an hour later to move the car. To my surprise, the clutch pedal had dropped about halfway down and I couldn't disengage the tranny. I jacked up the car and notice some oil dripping from the clutch slave cylinder. I pulled on the rubbber boot (where the push rod goes in) and it tore apart. About 2 tablespoons of fluid poured out. I figured the problem was just the seal so I purchased a new seal and rubber boot. I've re-installed the slave cylinder and now I have a problem. When I attach the push rod back to the tranny drop arm, the position of the push rod is at full extension. In other words, the push rod can't travel any further to disengage the tranny. Please go easy on me if I'm doing something really stupid here.

Your help is greatly appreciately!

 

[Geo Hahn]

Not a TR6 guy so ignore if this doesn't apply... might you have bolted the slave cylinder to the wrong side of the bell housing? I have seen this happen on other LBCs.

 

[vettedog72]

I bet $1.00 that Geo is correct.

 

[AltaKnight]

If Geo is not correct then it looks like the clutch arm that the slave pushrod attaches too has moved further away which unfortunately likely means the dreaded taper pin inside has let go meaning the gearbox has to come out.
Check by trying to move the clutch arm by hand without the slave rod attached. If you've got a load of loose play then that's the answer, hope I'm wrong!

 

[martx-5]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif...This sounds like the taper pin problem. All the symptoms point to it.

 

[Guest]

Ack, that sucks if it is the pin.

I just got done doing a clutch job on my TR6. My pin was sheared also, but somehow it was all staying together. I did the job because the clutch plate had just worn out and it was slipping. Do yourself a favor if the pin is broken. In addition to replacing it with a new high strength hardened pin, take the cross shaft and release fork down to a machine shop and have them drill a hole for a second pin. My buddy did this on mine for me, he drilled through on the opposite side of the fork from the original, at 90 dgrees to the original hole. I then used a grade 8 hardened bolt and a nyloc nut with locktite. Should last for quite awhile that way (I'm hoping).

 

[Slider748]

Ugh, I was worried someone would say it's the taper pin. However, I checked the play on the clutch arm and there is maybe a 1/4" of play which maybe (hopefully) means the taper pin isn't broken? I also checked to see if I reinstalled the slave on the wrong side of ther bell housing and it seems o.k.

Thanks for the great feedback so far! I'll crawl under the car tonight and spend another hour or so staring at it...

 

[jsneddon]

The slave location is essentially a fixed point(if you did in fact install the slave on the right side). So if the clutch arm is already at the far end of the slave travel then it pretty much has to be a mechanical problem at the arm "system" (arm, shaft, pin, fork, T.O. bearing, clutch).

Something in there broke - probably the taper pin.

I'm afraid the transmission is going to need to come out.

 

[Slider748]

Thanks for the input everyone. I guess I'll be hauling out the tranny this weekend.