Clutch Replacement + Rear Crank Oil Seal Replace?

[Andrew1]

Hello:

I am about to undertake a replacement of the clutch disc, presure plate and release bearing. I would also like to address the typical rear crank oil seal leak so typical of BJ's.

The question, is it possible to perform the replacement of the rear crank oil seal with one of the modern kits with the engine in place and only the trans, clutch and flywheel removed? I notice Moss states that there's requires a bit of drilling.

Can anyone suggest a good oil seal kit supplier?

- Andrew -

 

[AlanT]

Re: Clutch Replacement + Rear Crank Oil Seal Repla

I've never tried to make this modification with the engine in place. According to the instructions , the process can be done with the engine in the car. The backing plate must be removed and cut away for the seal retainer. I think the only other requirement is for the tech to be an accomplished contortionist.

Alan T

 

[tahoe healey]

Re: Clutch Replacement + Rear Crank Oil Seal Repla

I have been considering the same thing so I'm interested in the feedback. They appear on e-bay all the time. From what I gathered, four holes need to drilled and tapped. My fear is where do the metal scraps go from the drilling? (unless you remove the back plate and then you are dealing with gaskets and the potential of more leaks) I think British Car Specialist replaces the whole back plate but that is from a conversation with I had with Dave Nock regarding many other things he wanted to do to may Healey.

 

[Skip & Lynne]

Re: Clutch Replacement + Rear Crank Oil Seal Repla

I had already built my engine when I did it but you do have to cut out the back plate, some folks use a torch but I used my milling machine to do mine, as for the shavings tape off the back of the block and mark the holes and drill it the tape will capture almost all of the shavings. I wouldn`t want to do it in the car at all. Skip

 

[Keoke]

Re: Clutch Replacement + Rear Crank Oil Seal Repla

Hi all,with the tranny removed and the car elevated about 24" off the floor installing any one of the aftermarket seals with the engine installed is relatively easy.I have not found any significant advantages of one vendors product over the other. One note of caution the rear engine main bearing cap MUST be absolutely aligned with the back of the block!.---Fwiw---Keoke

 

[bighly]

Andrew,

Yes this is done with engine insitu just dandy. It is not at all difficult. It involves drilling and tapping four holes and enlarging the hole in the rear engine plate.

The rear output flange is used as a drill guide when drilling and tapping the four small holes in the block.
The kits include a bolt drilled out in the center as the guide.

I chose the round one and used a high speed side cutter to enlarge the engine back plate.

Here is a picture.

Alternativley go to my main site click transmission then Smitty Conversion.

Hope this helps

 

[tahoe healey]

Tracy, you said you chose the round one. Round what? How accurate does the hole enlargement need to be? In looking at some of the different ones, the Moss one looks like it is split and bolted together in two halves. It also has replacement seals available. Any advantage? Its more expensive.

 

[bighly]

[ QUOTE ]
Tracy, you said you chose the round one. Round what? How accurate does the hole enlargement need to be? In looking at some of the different ones, the Moss one looks like it is split and bolted together in two halves. It also has replacement seals available. Any advantage? Its more expensive.

[/ QUOTE ]

The round rear crankshaft seal. It is the aluminium part in the picture behind the output flange. Welsh sells a square one. The rear engine plate cut out does not need to be accurate but large enough to give clearence for the seal. The seal is split so you can get it on. Make sense?

 

[tahoe healey]

Yes it does. I saw several on e-bay that were solid rings. This does make it easy.
Thanks