Hi and welcome,
Hopefully you can get the clutch to release and start working properly just by rocking the car, as suggested.
You might take a look at a recent thread about clutches here on the forum...
"Well I still have 3rd & 4th gear anyway!"
Be sure the clutch slave cylinder's clevis pin is in the center hole of the lever, not the top or bottom holes. All TRs should use the middle hole of the lever.
You should adjust in .100" of play at the pushrod. This insures the throwout bearing is fully released when the clutch pedal is out. The best way to adjust it is to first adjust to remove all play by hand at the lever, then use a feeler gauge under the adjusting nut to set the correct amount of play, turning the adjusting nut until there is .100" between it and the yoke (clevis). Then carefully turn the pushrod itself, without disturbing the adjusting nut that's on it, until the nut comes up against the yoke (clevis), and then snug up the adjusting nut a little to lock in the adjustment. This only needs to be done every 12K miles or once a year, normally.
To make your life a whole lot easier, I'd suggest you get hold of the TR4 Workshop Manual with TR4A supplement (part #510322). Also a TR4A Spare Parts Catalog is a very valuable resource with exploded views of parts and giving you an opportunity to check that the correct parts were installed in the past. (For example, a later clutch slave cylinder/master cylinder combination that is "self-adjusting" has very little room for error and can make for throwout bearing problems.)
One aspect of the TR4A that might be effecting the clutch and might be changed on your car is the release shaft bushing/lubrication arrangement. Later gearboxes were fitted with non-greasable and narrower bushings on either side of the bellhousing, where the shaft passes through.
It's easy to identify, if your shaft doesn't have grease zerks (or holes for them, if someone removed them) in each end, then it's the later type of bushing setup that is prone to wear because the bushings never get lubricated (look for lateral play at the shaft as a sign of bushing wear... play makes it difficult/impossible to adjust the clutch release mechanism properly).
*If* you end up pulling the gearbox (out through the cockpit, as already mentioned), it's very worthwhile to upgrade to the earlier style cross shaft drilled to use grease zerks, and to install the earlier, wider, greasable bushings in the bellhousing.
Have fun wrenching on your project!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L