TR2/3/3A Caliper brake line

[BobbyO]

I'm having a problem getting the brake line to stop leaking at the caliper. I have the copper washer in place and have tightened the brake line as tight as it will go. It seems to have bottomed out. Moss sells a thicker copper washer so I imagine this is what I would need; however, Moss is closed. I have several old copper washers and could double up if that could stop the problem. What do you think, will two washers per side stop the problem. Don't want to break the line unless I think I can get it to stop leaking.

 

[TR3driver]

I would try screwing it in without the washer, to double-check that is the problem (without having to refill and have another leak).

But I see no problem with doubling up on the washer.

 

[Graham H]

I had a similar problem and found the new copper washer was too large and did not fit in the recess which made it leak , went back to the original and problem solved

Graham

 

[BobbyO]

Randall, I initially assembled it without the washer (forgot it) and it leaked like a sieve. Don't think it bottomed out now that I think of it. I'll try it with a second washer and see if that solves the problem. I also have another problem. When I apply and release the brakes to check for leaks the calipers are so tight on the rotors I cannot move them by hand. Could this be caused by the restrictor valve and, if I remove its insides, should it solve the problem. I don't see any problem being without it.

 

[sp53]

Yeh those copper washers always seemed too simple for me, but that is how it was done, and like Graham commented they have to be just right. I would say no about the restricter valve more like in the master cylinder. Do you have the tire on the hub for leverage?

 

[CJD]

You are probably aware, but the copper work hardens after being crushed, so if you plan to re-use them, you should heat them red hot for a minute, and then take the heat off slowly to anneal them. Polish them back up and they will then crush like new.

 

[BobbyO]

sp53 Master cylinder is new but could still be a problem I'm sure. Car is on jack stands with wheels off. I'll put a wheel on to see if it makes an appreciable difference. CJD I'll rework my old washers to get them back to "like new". Filling and emptying the reservoir has become a real pain. Hope to get this resolved soon.

 

[DavidApp]

I thought I had seen a selection of copper washers at ACE hardware stores.

David

 

[sp53]

I am not sure what the gap should be on a master cylinder rod. I turn the rod in so there is a notable free play in the rod that comes out of the MS. It will click and you can feel the gap; otherwise the rod could be turned out to far.

 

[TR3driver]

Yes, the restrictor valve could be the problem. When working as intended, it holds a small amount of pressure in the braking system, enough to make the calipers drag.

HF also has a collection of copper washers, but I don't recall there being one in there that would suit the brake calipers. As noted, the washer has to fit into a slight recess.

Workshop manual gives .030" freeplay at the MC pushrod, but in the Lockheed brake section. IMO that's plenty on a car that has the adjustable stops. Worth noting, perhaps, that the stops were deleted on later cars; perhaps to ensure that they couldn't be set too tight.

It's not clear to me that the copper washers have to be dead soft, in fact I don't believe they were soft to begin with. And annealing them will corrode and pit the surface (unless you have some means of doing it with an inert atmosphere). So I just reuse them (assuming they pass visual inspection) and I've never had a problem. Worth noting perhaps that the fellow who makes solid copper head gaskets (Mordy Dunst) has changed his position as well, and now says there is no need to anneal before reuse.

I assume you've followed the discussions on the restrictor valve, so won't repeat that here.

 

[BobbyO]

Just wanted to thank everyone for all the help. After I installed the copper washers, only the left side was leaking. I added a second copper washer there and all leaking stopped. However, the brakes still locked up when applied so I gutted the restrictor valve and now everything is working as it should. The restrictor valve was definitely a problem. Again, thanks for the help.