mgedit
Jedi Knight
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Here are some notes I made to try to consolidate the advice given here over the years about making a switch to an alternator in a TR3. Still trying to sort out how to proceed. Some questions in bold placed within notes. Sorry if this information is well known, but thought it might help some others to share my notes. In final analysis, I'm trying to sort out what parts I need for conversion, and how to redo wiring to complete the conversion while adding a few more circuits. As usual, greatly appreciate your help. Cheers, Mike
- Kits are available to do the swap (Triumph Rescue seems to be the common source for many other sellers) and come with all parts necessary for $175 plus $20 shipping (in US). Not sure what alternator is being used but it may well be the 10SI. Alternator with output between 45 and 60 amps should be sufficient.
- Alternators in both positive and negative ground and with different size pulleys and outputs can be ordered from https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_574/12-Volt-Negative-or-Positive-Ground.htm or from https://alternatorparts.com/10si-all-in-one.html (the Delco 10SI model).
- Delco (GM) 10SI alternator (Lester part no. 7127) is physically large. Other options are available such as Bosch or one for small Kubota tractor. Nippondenso (Lester part no. 14684 or 12184) may work. This is another possibility https://www.miparts.com/oem/13213
- VTR wiring article on alternator conversion by Dan Masters seems no longer to be on VTR site. Anyone have a copy?
- It is possible to gut the control box and use it to connect wires with the conversion. Conversion of control box retains a more original look. Some information here that might be same or very similar to what needed on TR3. Is this information same for TR3? (https://www.minimania.com/Changing_from_Dynamo_to_Alternator_721); or removing all together https://www.minimania.com/Alternator_Conversion_Instructions
- Internal failures have been reported (by Randall) when using the old control box. For this reason switch to terminal block might be better. Wiring kit for 10SI alternator, as well as insulated terminal block, are available from https://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml, and https://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml
- Although original generator pulley can be drilled out and used with alternator, it is better to get a smaller wide-belt pulley to turn the alternator more quickly and provide low-engine speed charging. Several sources on eBay for wide pulleys and alternators with wide pulleys.
- Randall put a shunt (3.5" of 16 AWG wire) across the ammeter terminals to divert some of the current past the meter. With the right piece of wire, you can have the meter read approximately 1/2 the current (and thus not peg the needle at full charge).
- Seems like good time to add some more fuses. Can something like this box be used to replace existing 2-fuse box? On second look, it seems like it is a way to break one input into six outputs, so this may be more what I need? If the second type is required, would be nice to find with screw connections. If these are not suitable, what is needed, how should it be wired, and what size spade fuses would be needed for horns (currently wired through a relay) and "rest of car" circuit? Just want to be able to add a couple of circuit for electric fan and for power outlet inside car, and have a couple potential left over just in case.