U-Bolts <Quick Help>

[motofiaccone]

OK, Gents:

Whilst looking at the VB catalog for rear axle lowering kits, I decided they were priced too high. I can make my own much cheaper...

The struggle is finding long enough U-bolts. In my previous builds, I always used Grade8's for the highly stressed areas. I found a supplier that will make me some custom U-bolts in the size I need, but they will only be grade 5. Since the stock U-bolts are 3/8", should I go up to 7/16" or even 1/2"?

I underdtand that the retaining platform will need to be modified--or even re-fabricated--and I'm OK with that. I'm just curious your opinions.

Racers: What do you use?

--Thanks, Chris

 

[bill_young]

Chris, I wouldn't be concerned with the size or having any greater strength than grade 5. These are not under a great deal of additional stress even with a lowering kit.

 

[bugimike]

Have you checked out any places that sell/service trailers? They generally have a lot of "U-bolt" selections!

 

[motofiaccone]

Thanks gents for the suggestions. I did look around quite a bit. Just when I was ready to order the $100 lowering kit, I found a friend who knew a friend who knew a supplier. I ended up getting exactly what I need. Well, kinda. I wanted grade-8 and got grade-5.

I ended up going with 7/16", which should be strong enough. Part of the reason I wanted to go with the custom bolts is because I don't really know how low I want the car (I'm thinking 1.5" all around on a RB car). Once I decide on a ride height, I can use the panhard bar for the roll center. Then I'm on to the fun stuff...though I suspect this will be an repetitive process. Still progress is made.

I also got the the car on the build table. I was completely unprepared for the weight of the chassis. I was used to a 120lbs se7en chassis!

--Chris

 

[RonMacPherson]

For this application you are better off with Grade 5 than Grade 8.

There is more elasticity in a grade 5 bolt. It will bend more before shearing than a grade 8.