TR4/4A TR4A Wiper Motor Lubricant

[JDstr4a]

When I first tried the wipers on BB, they moved a few inches and stopped. Since it's been too hot to do any extended work here, I decided to remove and clean. Now that that's done as far as the gearbox, I was curious if white lithium would be ok to re-lube with? Most of the original grease in contact with moving parts was more like a paste with a lot of grit, so should i try to seal it up a little?
Thanks
JD

 

[JerryVV]

I've used the white grease with success, especially since you won't be using it in the rain very often. You can also use a silicone grease.

 

[JerryVV]

I should also add that slow wipers can be because the grease in the cable has gotten old and hard. Replacing that is a job as you must remove the covers deep under the dash and behind everything in order to get to the wheel boxes and remove the cable and tubes. Lets hope that your cable moves freely and you don't need to do that job. In addition the wheel boxes can get frozen so check those as well.

 

[HerronScott]

I'm pretty sure that's what I used and didn't have any issues.

Scott

 

[startech47]

Corn Header grease

 

[trrdster2000]

I use wheel bearing grease and have had no problem. The cable should also have a good coating before in stalling in the shaft. If you have not taken the wipers off, do so before installing the cable as it will turn the wipers into your paint, not good.

Wayne

 

[JDstr4a]

Thanks for the info. How hard is it to pull the tubes?
JD

 

[martx-5]

Thanks for the info. How hard is it to pull the tubes?
JD

I don't know about removal in the TR4/A, but in the TR3, they built the car around the wiper mechanism. I'd imagine it's pretty much the same on the later TR's.

 

[JerryVV]

There are 2 blanking plates just below the wheel boxes. Remove those plates and disconnect the cables from the wheelboxes by removing the 2 screws that hold the tubes to the wheel boxes, then pull the cable out via the hole inside the engine compartment where the cable enters the body. There are 3 tubes that can then be removed. One from the motor to the drivers side wheel box, one between wheel boxes and one on the passenger side that guides the cable exiting the passenger side wheel box.

Getting to the blanking plates requires you to work thru the dash speedo or tach openings and via the glove box once the glove box is removed. Or you can stand on your head and try them from below. Either way it's a pain.

 

[JDstr4a]

Thanks, I think that procedure just moved down the list, unless there's still a problem after I reinstall everything!
JD

 

[JerryVV]

Try moving the cable by hand and if all works well with no excessive resistance leave it alone.

 

[CinneaghTR]

I think I'll do this when I replace the dash...

 

[JDstr4a]

After cleanning the cable up it moves freely, so the tubes move to the bottom of the list.