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TR4/4A Steering U-Joint Question for TR4A

fpstude

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I'm replacing the steering u-Joint in our '67 TR4A. When removing the existing U-Joint, I did not pay attention to the details. There are two sizes of holes on each side. Which size hole has the bolt head? Why?

In advance, thanks for the input.
 

Andy Blackley

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Perry:
That rubber donut is also used on the TR6 and a number of other cars built by Triumph. It was modified over time to use a round headed cap screw (Allen head). You can use your old bolts with the addition of a washer under the head of the bolt, or use all new Allen headed bolts such as Moss Part #320-185 which is pre-drilled for the safety wire. A "top tip" is to use a 2" to 3" hose clamp to compress the thing enough to allow you to get all of the bolts lined up. Be sure to include the ground straps.

Here is a link to a good description, showing the later Allen bolts used on the TR6.

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm GroundStrapNew.jpg
 

Andy Blackley

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I just recalled that if you are reusing your old bolts you don' need a washer under the head as I suggested above, merely orient the donut so that the recessed holes are hidden by the adaptor clamp.
 
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fpstude

fpstude

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Andy, thanks for the input.
Both TRF and Moss are 2-3 weeks out to supply this part, telling me they both have the same source. I may install the old one.
 

Andy Blackley

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Do you mean the Allen head bolts? When I did this job on my car I used slightly longer bolts bought at the local hardware store. They thread all the way through the clamp and instead of the safety wire I used lock nuts. Given that the rubber donut puts the entire assembly under tension there is no way those bolts are going to back out. I am attaching photos of what I did.

Here is a long thread on the Triumph Experience forum form last year : https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr4-and-tr4a-forum.7/steering-coupling.1644775/page-2

IMG_2917.JPGIMG_2919.JPG
 
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fpstude

fpstude

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I installed my existing u-joint today. As I saw in the link in Andy's #2 post above, I used a hose clamp to compress the u-joint. It made a lot of difference in the ease of installation.

Actually, the purpose of working on the u-joint was to correct the horn that would not work consistently. I made a new ground cable and cleaned all of the bolt connection. The horn now works with the steering wheel in all positions.

Again, thanks to everyone for the assistance

 
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