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The Saga Continues...

Turn Two

Freshman Member
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I am learning way more than I ever intended on this 'Project'!!!
rolleyes.gif


Here's the latest. The distributor is an Opus D45DE4. The ignition is a Piranha. The original electrics and electronics are disconnected in the distributor. The rotor is Piranha. The wiring harness from the 'points' (light) go to the Piranha module. The vacuum inlet on the distributor was capped.

I figure that since there is virtually no advance with increase in RPM... The centrifugal advance is stuck (either gummed up or rusty).

I pulled the distributor and (Of course) cannot get the rotor off! It is soaking in penetrating oil as I type. Once it's off I can remove the plate and free up the weights.

I have attached a mighty-vac to the vacuum advance inlet and A: it advanced the distributor... and B: it held vacuum for over 10 minutes.
grin.gif


Next step is to free the mechanical advance and re-install the distributor. I will hook up a vacuum line to the inlet. Is the line on the carb (Marked with the arrow) the line I need to tap into?

SU%20Carb.jpg


That line runs to the other SU then across the firewall to a canister. I can 'T' in right above the distributor.

Hopefully this is worth the effort... and my wife will appreciate the car even if she doesn't appreciate the work involved!

Anything worth doing is worth OVERDOING!!!

Thanks again fellow masochists!


Michael~

My Sculptures

[ 04-22-2004: Message edited by: Turn Two ]</p>
 
G

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No, those go to the gas vapor canistor. My vacuum line goes to the intake manifold
 
OP
T

Turn Two

Freshman Member
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Whoooooooooooooooooo - Wheeeeeeeeeeeeee !!!

This little sucker runs like a bandit!

The centrifugal advance was stuck. (Duh) Freed it up and lubed it real well. cleaned everything up and re-assembled everything. I set the timing at about 12 degree advance at idle... It advances past the end of the markers as RPM increases.

I left the vacuum advance capped at the distributor. Drove it around the block and it goes like stink! A little breakup between 2500 and 3500 RPM... but that could be anything, including carb adjustment. I will finese' carbs and timing over the weekend.

The car now has new suspension bushings up front... new rotors and pads... the fuel pump seems to be pumping steadily (cleaned the points)... The new (rebuilt) Bosch alternator cleared the dim ignition lamp... and the smog stuff is all packed away in storage in case the pleasure police ever decide that it must be on the car.

Soon to be working on my FFR Cobra replica. It's about time!

Thanks to everyone for the input in this thread and the previous two.
grin.gif


Michael~
My Sculptures
 

Dave Russell

Yoda - R.I.P
Gold
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Glad the problems are working out. They usually do - sooner or later.

Your sculptures are really nice. You must get a lot of satisfaction out of using your considerable talent.
D
 
G

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I don't use the vacuum advance on mine. I have a distributor that came with weaker springs in the mechanical advance so that full advance comes in around 2500 RPM and the acceleration is much better than a MG that has the standard timing that doesn't come in full until the 6000 or so area.
Bob
 
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Turn Two

Freshman Member
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Dave,
Thanks for the kudos on the sculptures. They are a passion and I am very blessed that sculpting of the vintage vehicles is my avocation! I am 'forced' to go to vintage events and talk to all the 'old-timers' about all their cars.
grin.gif


It just don't get any better!

Bob,

I was thinking of driving the car for a few days without the vacuum and see how it performs. Good to know it's an option!

Michael~
My Sculptures

[ 04-22-2004: Message edited by: Turn Two ]

[ 04-22-2004: Message edited by: Turn Two ]</p>
 
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