spin on oil filter conversion kit

[Deleted member 9684]

does anyone have any experience with these? I saw the bugeye barn has them and after today's oil change, i think i need to convert...

 

[nomad]

seano: The best plan for a spin on is to keep your eye on flea bay and buy the setup from a later spridget. It'll blot up.

Kurt.

 

[Deleted member 9684]

thanks nomad. what year and displacement works on a 1961 bugeye with the 948cc?

 

[AN5Sprite]

Either way you're gonna get oil down the arm...If you're sticking with with original 948, the cartridge filter isn't THAT bad. I'd leave it. Second choice for me would be longer of the two spin on heads from the later cars. I have one of the round spin-on adapters (not sure if that's what your considering) on a 948 and it's a whole 'nother set problems. It's not bad, but it's not really good either. On a pure car like you've got...OEM is the way. That's me.

 

[ichthos]

My 59 bugeye is as original as I could make it through my total restoration. I have the original 948, smooth case transmission, ... I have only made a few modifications when practicality dictated, one of which was adding a later model 1275 spin on oil filter. Maybe it was just me, but it was a difficult and extremely messy using the canister type filter. The later model spin on oil filter has been so much nicer. Easier to get my hands in there, and no mess. The one I purchased is the same brand, and unless someone looks closely, it looks just like the original. Just put your needs out on the forum and hopefully someone will be able to sell you one for you like they did me. There was just one up on Ebay this week that was sold. Just my two cents.
Kevin

 

[Deleted member 9684]

my problem isnt that it's messy... i spent 2 hours yesterday attmepting to get the cannister to seal on the o-ring without leaking... I bought the cartidge and o-ring from Moss, and not matter how I try, I cannot get it to top leaking...

i do want to keep it orginal, but it also needs to be practical - and i can't spend 2 hours changing the oil...

so it would seem that a later 1275 filter housing would work?

 

[rkep01]

Check to make sure you're not distorting the o-ring by tightening it too much.

 

[regularman]

my problem isnt that it's messy... i spent 2 hours yesterday attmepting to get the cannister to seal on the o-ring without leaking... I bought the cartidge and o-ring from Moss, and not matter how I try, I cannot get it to top leaking...

i do want to keep it orginal, but it also needs to be practical - and i can't spend 2 hours changing the oil...

so it would seem that a later 1275 filter housing would work?

There are two Oring types. Make sure you get a good seal or you could end up like I did and all the oil pumping out on there road and 7 quarts of oil poured in just to make it home 15 miles.
I made myself up a bunch of gaskets. The easiest way to do the canister is to remove the two long bolts and take off the entire housing. Replace the canister filter and gasket and make sure all is well and then put the whole housing back on again. The gaskets are easy to make. I have several filters that I bought and others have given me. I made up a gasket for each and put in the box. There is no real heat there so a cardboard gasket made from a cheerios box will work fine if you don't have any proper gasket material. Then it won't take 2 hours and you don't have to try and get under the car. Maybe its just in my head, but I think the canister filter does a better job and gets more crap out of the engine because I think it flows more oil and lots of stuff settles in the bottom of the canister itself and gets cleaned out when you take it all apart.

 

[scoutll]

I changed to a spin-on filter for my 1098. It was simple bolt on thing with just a little bit of tweaking to the original oil line to make it fit.

 

[TraceZ]

I've got a canister filter on the 1275 in my 64 Sprite.

I bought the car out of a barn, did a mechanical restoration including engine rebuild and I changed the oil for the first time ever yesterday to get out the break-in oil.

When I went to remove the canister I got a rude surprise. The frame rail is too close to the canister, preventing the long bolt from coming out far anough to remove the canister assembly. I had to remove the entire filter adapter from the side of the engine to change the oil filter. That means removing the air duct to make room, removing the banjo bolt for the oil line and the adapter. It was a PITA.

Did I mention it was messy. I had oil running all the way down both arms dripping off my elbows. And the mess wasn't on just me either, the frame rails and chassis under the side of the car was solid oil.

Next year when I change out the oil, I'm installing a spin-on filter adapter. I'm not going through what I did yesterday ever again.... for something that should be so simple.

 

[Deleted member 9684]

my problem isnt that it's messy... i spent 2 hours yesterday attmepting to get the cannister to seal on the o-ring without leaking... I bought the cartidge and o-ring from Moss, and not matter how I try, I cannot get it to top leaking...

i do want to keep it orginal, but it also needs to be practical - and i can't spend 2 hours changing the oil...

so it would seem that a later 1275 filter housing would work?

There are two Oring types. Make sure you get a good seal or you could end up like I did and all the oil pumping out on there road and 7 quarts of oil poured in just to make it home 15 miles.
I made myself up a bunch of gaskets. The easiest way to do the canister is to remove the two long bolts and take off the entire housing. Replace the canister filter and gasket and make sure all is well and then put the whole housing back on again. The gaskets are easy to make. I have several filters that I bought and others have given me. I made up a gasket for each and put in the box. There is no real heat there so a cardboard gasket made from a cheerios box will work fine if you don't have any proper gasket material. Then it won't take 2 hours and you don't have to try and get under the car. Maybe its just in my head, but I think the canister filter does a better job and gets more crap out of the engine because I think it flows more oil and lots of stuff settles in the bottom of the canister itself and gets cleaned out when you take it all apart.

that sounds like a fine idea. i do want to keep the orignality, so maybe changein the filter using this method sounds like a great compromise.

 

[jlaird]

Miss Agatha has a spin on oil filter. She does not like the mess either.

 

[regularman]

Miss Agatha has a spin on oil filter. She does not like the mess either.

but that is not original Jack. The original canister filter is black :wink:

 

[nomad]

Well what I run doesn't matter one way or the other to me. I have a car with the canister type and 3 with spin on's. I bought a car and a case of NOS Purolater canister type filter cartridge's came with it so I'm going to use them up. I've had plenty of experience with the cartridge filters over the years. For leak proof installation I recommend that you replace the seal each time you change the filter. I made up a little chisle shaped cutting tool out of a nail to carefully cut the old seal. You want to be sure to not distort the canister by over tighting either. As to the bottom of the can a home made gasket as already mentioned may be needed.

Kurt.

 

[TulsaFred]

My advice is to forget hyper-originality.
I started this route with my Corvettes and there is no end. When I apprentice judged at our regional NCRS meet last year, I was instructed to crawl under the 63 Vette I was helping judge, and feel the pigtail connector on the parking light wiring. Originals had "flat" crimps, repros were more rounded. I sheet you not. I was incredulous, but the connector felt rounded not flat, and the owner was dinged for points. Another father/son team restored a beautiful 64 coupe, and got a 100% deduction on paint because it was "too nice". Original was lacquer with many flaws, poor quality control, and was not buffed to a shine in certain tight body contours. This car even though single stage and "period similar" did not have appropriate flaws in appropriate locations. They had worked on this pristine car for years and were crushed.
At that point I decided to stop the madness on my cars. While I definitely favor originality, I think it should only go to a point. Keeping the old canister oil filter for the sake of originality is just silly IMHO. The spin on cartridge is far superior and has no material impact on the originality of the car. If you think it does, then, like I said, there will be no end. Some day you will be obsessing about the head markings on your bumper bolts, etc. etc. etc. It strangles the joy out of the hobby. Trust me.

Fred

 

[Guest]

Some day you will be obsessing about the head markings on your bumper bolts, etc. etc. etc. It strangles the joy out of the hobby. Trust me.

Fred

Seeems to be praticed maily by very vain people. I don't get it.

 

[TulsaFred]

Vanity? Competitiveness? Wanting to know that one extra detail that elevates your standing as an "expert" in the hobby. Given the relatively widespread popularity of the cars, there are a lot of guys involved, and this generates lots of detailed information. The cars being built in the US means there are many retired engineers, assembly line supervisors, designers, mechanics, fabricators, subsystems experts, engine builders, Delco/AC/Fisher Body/AO Smith employees, etc. involved with highly detailed knowledge of production details. The organization, meets, and especially internet forums bring all these people together on an ongoing basis. In the end, the sheer volume of detailed information on originality is staggering. They then attempt to apply this knowledge in a competitive environment with a large number of enthusiasts as dedicated as they come. The awards (eg. NCRS "top flight") also have significant impact on value of fairly high dollar cars.

Anyway, I think ultimately it is not the way to go. I have far more fun doing basic restoration to achieve an original looking car, that is beautiful and nostalgic, but also with well selected improvements and modifications. Ones that don't really detract from originality but add beauty (two stage paints), comfort (ac), or function (eg. 5 speed conversions).

More and more people are going for "restomods" that look fairly original on the outside but have modern engines/suspensions/tires so the the car looks like a classic, but runs and drives like a modern car. Very cool.

Sorry for getting off topic.

Fred

 

[Guest]

Competitiveness?

Competitiveness: trying to be better than someone else and provong it; vanity.

Wanting to know that one extra detail that elevates your standing as an "expert" in the hobby.

If that's not vanity I don't know what is.

I've met VERY few people who do it for the car and not themselves. It's been my experience that when you talk to them, it's all about them. They aren't interested in anything you have to add or say. I don't cut my car and "create" what I'd like to only because it's not the right thing for the car. It might not matter now, but one day it will. I'll be long gone by then. I could build something, and then show ~everyone~ how talented ~I~ am, but it would be the right thing for the car.

I know a guy who wanted to buy a Ferrari and drive it around uptown New Orleans.....some of the worse streets in the country. I told him he might as well spray paint his name in florecent orange on the ceiling of the Sistine chapel.

Don't get upset, just think about it for a minute. It's not a personal attack or condemnation, just reality. Competition is nothing more than seeking one's own glory in front of others.

I'm obsessive about "correctness", but not to seek my own glory.

Either way it just like you said, sucks the joy out of it.

In the end it really doesn't matter. "Correctness" is striving in vain for perfection in an imperfect world.

All that time, money and effort spent on a car that's too "perfect" to drive.

How can a car be perfect if you can't drive it? What good is it?

The only thing you cam do with it is say," *Well*, ~I~ have a PERFECT 100% concours blah blah blah. I won blah blah blah.... and it has a three liter ~VEE EIGHT~!

There are the nice guys out there, Mr. Laird comes to mind; but they're few and far between. Jack has the right mindset IMHO.

I will say this, there are far more good guys in LBC circles than anywhere else. I'm not implying anything about anyone here. I'm just saying there are more of "them" than "us" in general in the automotive community.

Doing it for the love of the car(s) is one thing. Doing it for love of yourself is another matter. :wink:

 

[nomad]

Hey, just one more reason I drive Spridgets and not Corvette's!!

Seriously the only corvettes I ever even liked the looks of were the sting rays and the 56 57 single headlight.

Most of the drivers seem stuck up enough that a wave when you meet them top down on a nice back road is too much trouble. Least around here.

Kurt.

 

[Guest]

Most of the drivers seem stuck up enough that a wave when you meet them top down on a nice back road is too much trouble. Least around here.

Kurt.

Funny you mention that. I just got back from "Cruisin' The Coast". Over 5K registered cars plus guys like me that just show up. Part of the event is evryone driving up and down HWY90 along the beach. There is a good size median b/w east and west bound lanes. All other makes didn't wave at each other but the second another LBC comes into view, you don't get just a hand wave, but a fully extended arm flailing about making sure you see them.

It's true, you meet the nicest people in a LBC. They usually have a good sense of humor too. That's what I like best about you guys.

The local club has an Uncar show with awards given for worse paint, biggest dent etc. Can't help but love a group like that.