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AweMan
Jedi Knight
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Soldering Lead and Silver:
Silver soldering filler wire comes in many different alloys from 5% silver to 100 % be sure to choose an alloy {silver content} filler wire to suit your needs. Higher content silver filler wires will flow at lower tempratures but at a reduced tinsel stregnth and visa versa.
Many of these alloys contain cadnium of which is a cancer causing agent. Who doesn`t know how toxic lead is? Fluxes are highly toxic as well. It is impearitive that you work in a well ventalated area when working with these materials and avoid breathing the fumes at all costs!
The first thing you need to do is clean the surfaces of the material to be joined of any grease, oil, paint, rust or dirt.
The sedcond thing is:
Materials usualy come new with a chemicaly induced oxide or "Skin" on the outtermost portion this skin needs to be removed. Use sandpaper to remove this "skin" or lightly grind this "skin" off of the area that the solder will be applied to. It is essential to remove the "skin" in order to get a good clean surface to allow the solder to bond properly, be it lead or silver solder.
Note: There are many diffrent types of flux for different materials make sure you are using the approporiate flux for the material you are soldering.
Next is flux application, apply a generous amount of flux to the area you want the lead or silver to adhere to.
Note: There are fluxes specificaly designed for silver soldering stainless steel. Make sure you are using an approporiate type flux for the material you wish to solder.
Keep in mind that when applying the flux that the lead or silver solder will generaly flow to anyplace that has flux and sufficent heat. Also keep in mind that when you apply heat to the flux it is going to spread out considerably. The key to making a visualy pleasing joint bond comes with practice and careful application of the flux.
Silver soldering Stainless Steel:
A common mistake made is getting the stainless too hot {or burning the stainless} If the Stainless turns black on the outter surface it is burnt and needs to be re-cleaned to a bright shiny surface again before continuing.
A slight carborizing flame is desireable, this "softens" the feather and outter cone which is the part of the flame you want to use.
The joint to be soldered must be heated evenly {all sides} periodicaly dab the solder on the joint to see if it is hot enough to melt the filler wire. Do not melt the solder with your flame, the joint will eventualy get hot enough to produce the desired capillary action. Use the feather of the flame to maintain heat on the joint moving around to all sides. Once you see the silver flow completley around the joint stop adding the silver filler wire, maintain the heat for another few seconds then remove it letting the silver solidify. You can use a spray bottle and water to cool the joint and this will also aid in removing any residual flux, residual flux must be removed as completely as possible, the flux is corrosive! A small wire brush and hot water works well .
Lead soldering:
Generaly the same technique although a different flux. Lead is a particularly good material to repair pinholes in floor pans or other areas. A "Dam" on the backside of the pinhole will prevent the lead from running through onto the ground. when lead soldering steel or stainless steel you should not use a copper, brass, or steel dam {heat sink} the lead will stick to these materials. Aluminum makes a good dam for this purpose.
Use as small of a tip on your torch as possible to accomplish your welding/soldering tasks. Expierment with flame settings but keep in mind that neutral or silghtly carborising is essential for soldering purposes. You will need a "Soft" flame. Take your time, you are not in a footrace.
Note: In most cases for our purposes an "Oxidizing" flame is NOT desireable.
I hope you find this article informative
Kerry
Silver soldering filler wire comes in many different alloys from 5% silver to 100 % be sure to choose an alloy {silver content} filler wire to suit your needs. Higher content silver filler wires will flow at lower tempratures but at a reduced tinsel stregnth and visa versa.
Many of these alloys contain cadnium of which is a cancer causing agent. Who doesn`t know how toxic lead is? Fluxes are highly toxic as well. It is impearitive that you work in a well ventalated area when working with these materials and avoid breathing the fumes at all costs!
The first thing you need to do is clean the surfaces of the material to be joined of any grease, oil, paint, rust or dirt.
The sedcond thing is:
Materials usualy come new with a chemicaly induced oxide or "Skin" on the outtermost portion this skin needs to be removed. Use sandpaper to remove this "skin" or lightly grind this "skin" off of the area that the solder will be applied to. It is essential to remove the "skin" in order to get a good clean surface to allow the solder to bond properly, be it lead or silver solder.
Note: There are many diffrent types of flux for different materials make sure you are using the approporiate flux for the material you are soldering.
Next is flux application, apply a generous amount of flux to the area you want the lead or silver to adhere to.
Note: There are fluxes specificaly designed for silver soldering stainless steel. Make sure you are using an approporiate type flux for the material you wish to solder.
Keep in mind that when applying the flux that the lead or silver solder will generaly flow to anyplace that has flux and sufficent heat. Also keep in mind that when you apply heat to the flux it is going to spread out considerably. The key to making a visualy pleasing joint bond comes with practice and careful application of the flux.
Silver soldering Stainless Steel:
A common mistake made is getting the stainless too hot {or burning the stainless} If the Stainless turns black on the outter surface it is burnt and needs to be re-cleaned to a bright shiny surface again before continuing.
A slight carborizing flame is desireable, this "softens" the feather and outter cone which is the part of the flame you want to use.
The joint to be soldered must be heated evenly {all sides} periodicaly dab the solder on the joint to see if it is hot enough to melt the filler wire. Do not melt the solder with your flame, the joint will eventualy get hot enough to produce the desired capillary action. Use the feather of the flame to maintain heat on the joint moving around to all sides. Once you see the silver flow completley around the joint stop adding the silver filler wire, maintain the heat for another few seconds then remove it letting the silver solidify. You can use a spray bottle and water to cool the joint and this will also aid in removing any residual flux, residual flux must be removed as completely as possible, the flux is corrosive! A small wire brush and hot water works well .
Lead soldering:
Generaly the same technique although a different flux. Lead is a particularly good material to repair pinholes in floor pans or other areas. A "Dam" on the backside of the pinhole will prevent the lead from running through onto the ground. when lead soldering steel or stainless steel you should not use a copper, brass, or steel dam {heat sink} the lead will stick to these materials. Aluminum makes a good dam for this purpose.
Use as small of a tip on your torch as possible to accomplish your welding/soldering tasks. Expierment with flame settings but keep in mind that neutral or silghtly carborising is essential for soldering purposes. You will need a "Soft" flame. Take your time, you are not in a footrace.
Note: In most cases for our purposes an "Oxidizing" flame is NOT desireable.
I hope you find this article informative
Kerry
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