How much will this cost ??!!!

[brent615]

Just found that my front differential mounts had been welded at some point in their lives and now one of the welds is split. I have a buddy who is a great welder but this bracket is in a tight spot. Does the differential have to be removed to be repaired? Anything else to take into account if I am going to be doing this anyway?

 

[Brosky]

Got any pictures to show us the actual problem? This is kind of hard to discuss with actually seeing the cracks or previous welded work.

 

[brent615]

 

[brent615]

that is the best pic I could get tonight with it on jack stands

 

[Guest]

That's not where they usually crack. Up to the top at the welds to the frame. I would say you need to replace the whole bracket. Looks pretty crusty to me. They make these brackets as well as aftermarket braces for them, to box them up. Don't like the looks of the bracket or the size of the crack. And yes, the diff has got to go, otherwise it becomes another patch job. Even with the diff out, it becomes a challenge for a good welder to do it right, overhead especially, and in a tight spot.

 

[TheAssociate]

Don't forget what is above the diff!


Adam.

____________________________________________________________
1973 Triumph Spitfire.

 

[AweMan]

That could be fixed by a COMPETENT welder, BUT ....... the rubber in the mount will be history anyway from the heat. Just a surface weld would NEVER do. The bracket would need to be beveled and a 100% penetration weld applied to be done properly. I suggest replace the bracket, re-enforce it before you instal it. Use new rubber bushings at the mounting points.
save yourself some agrivation of it breaking again down the road.
Kerry

 

[TR6oldtimer]

The break as shown has certainly caused a break on the top of the frame where the stud is attached. You will need to drop the diff to do the repair right.

 

[rooster]

Hi,

I'll just add to every ones good advice, that I got mine done a few years ago. The frame where the pin mounts was cracked, and I was able to pull the pin out by hand.

To fix it, I got a welder to weld a steel plate to the top of the frame where the pin is supposed to mount (had to cut a hole in the floor of the car above the frame to get access), and then the pin was welded to the plate. After that the pin was boxed in as per the standard fix.

It was quite a job to get it all done (and to find a welder that would do it). But it should stay fixed permanently.

Oh and while you are at it, put some kind of bolt together joint in the exaust at the point before where it goes under the diff, that way you won't have to cut it, if you need to access or remove the diff again.

 

[YankeeTR]

Well I'm going to tell you to have your friend weld it up as a temporary fix...then you can continue to drive the car this year and then do a proper repair during the off season.

If it breaks again then you can fix it...but it's been broken this long and it probably wasn't much of a problem, right?

I'm really big on driving cars...even if they aren't perfect.

 

[Tinster]

Speaking from over a year of do-it-myself
repairs, you can and should replace those
dried out diffy mounts. It's not all that difficult to do.

dale in bayamon, PR

 

[brent615]

Thanks everyone. I am taking it to my welding buddy Saturday and a mechanic Monday. I like the idea of the short term repair and driving through the season if I can so long as it makes sense financially. I think I am going to send my shocks to Apple for rebuild while I'm digging around back there and replace some of the old rubber mounts and grommets.