HEALEY GREEN ENGINE ENAMEL-POR15 ???

[CASCADEWILLY]

ALRIGHT, THE PO5-15 PRODUCT IS OBVIOUSLY NOT HEALEY GREEN. NOW IT IS REFERRED TO AS BMC GREEN. WHO HAS A SIMILIAR PRODUCT OUT THERE AND WHERE CAN I GET IT ? ALL REPLYS APPRECIATED.

WILLY

 

[Skip & Lynne]

Got mine from Moss

 

[CASCADEWILLY]

DOES IT HAVE A GLOSS FINISH ? IS IT THE SAME AS POR15 ?

 

[CASCADEWILLY]

THE PRODUCTS FROM POR-15 WILL NOT CHIP AND THEY ENCAPSELATE THE RUST AND CORROSION SO IT NEVER HAS TO BE DONE AGAIN. I RESTORED MY ENGINE ABOUT 10 YEARS AGO AND THE PAINT IS FLAKING. THE POR-15 PRODUCT IS LIKE AN EPOXY.

 

[Editor_Reid]

I get my Healey engine green paint from Moss Motors, in convenient spray cans. POR is a "Paint Over Rust" coating. I've never heard of painting an engine with it, but whatever works for you.

Say, could you unlock the caps, please? Makes it easier to read that way. Thanks.

 

[Keoke]

[ QUOTE ]
ALRIGHT, THE PO5-15 PRODUCT IS OBVIOUSLY NOT HEALEY GREEN. NOW IT IS REFERRED TO AS BMC GREEN. WHO HAS A SIMILIAR PRODUCT OUT THERE AND WHERE CAN I GET IT ? ALL REPLYS APPRECIATED.

WILLY

[/ QUOTE ]


Nobody that I know of---Keoke

 

[Keoke]

[ QUOTE ]
THE PRODUCTS FROM POR-15 WILL NOT CHIP AND THEY ENCAPSELATE THE RUST AND CORROSION SO IT NEVER HAS TO BE DONE AGAIN. I RESTORED MY ENGINE ABOUT 10 YEARS AGO AND THE PAINT IS FLAKING. THE POR-15 PRODUCT IS LIKE AN EPOXY.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep, Ain't nothin I know of out there much like it.---Keoke--- :hammer

 

[JamesWilson]

You could use the POR15 primer and then top coat it with the proper Healey Green.

 

[MotorHead67]

Check here for the proper color:
hirschauto.com

 

[dklawson]

STOP.

POR engine enamel... is ENAMEL. It is NOT the POR product you are referring to as "paint over rust". Don't confuse the two.

I have used the POR enamel on the Mini engine and it is "correct" for that application as BMC green. Coincidentally, I did apply a single coat of regular POR as a primer to the block but it isn't really necessary. The enamel brushes well on cast iron but should be thinned with mineral spirits and sprayed on smooth components like valve covers. I'll be happy to share more details by email.

See:
https://home.mindspring.com/~dklawson/minipics/EngineCompartment1.jpg

 

[AlanT]

As Motorhead67 has noted , use the paint from Bill Hirsch. 800-828-2061 on use the website. The paint is only available in quart cans and must be thinned and sprayed . I am about a week away from painting my seventh or eighth 3000 engine with this product. Recently I saw an engine I painted many years back and it still looks fresh. The paint from Moss would be my next choice as it is much easier to use. Alan

 

[John Loftus]

[ QUOTE ]
The paint is only available in quart cans and must be thinned and sprayed.

[/ QUOTE ]

The Hirsch paint can be brushed on and some people prefer to apply it that way for the block. For the pressed steel panels like the valve cover, etc. primer and spray is the way to go.

Cheers,
John

 

[CASCADEWILLY]

Hey Reid, sorry about the CAPS. I have seen the Hirsch paint and it does look nice. Is the Hirsch paint an epoxy paint, Hi-temp or just a paint ?

Hey AlanT, Is the Hirsch paint better thinned and sprayed through my primer gun or brush painted ? Do you use a metal etch to prepare the block and then paint or just paint right on bare metal block ?

 

[John Loftus]

Willy,

Here is some application info on the Hirsch engine enamel straight from the horse's mouth.

https://hirschauto.com/engine.htm

and here is the home page

https://www.hirschauto.com/

Cheers,
John

 

[AlanT]

Me thinks the Hirsch paint is just a high quality enamel. I etch the cast iron with a weak solution. The stamped pieces get a higher dose. I prime the valve cover, oil pan and timing cover well and just mist the cast iron. Alan T

 

[Keoke]

AlanT, Me thinks you are right too, and if it sounds too good to be true it probably is. I also prefer Moss rattle can paint for ease of use.---Keoke

 

[Editor_Reid]

Another small thing to consider is that the engine paint jobs done with Hirsch paint, or similar products, end up looking noticably better than they ever looked originally. If you want the true original look, the Moss spray paint is the best way to go, at least that I know of.

Touch-ups are also much easier with that handy rattle can sitting on the shelf, and I've also had excellent results there, too. And when you need more, you just make that toll-free call and along it comes. No mixing and trying to match exact recipes of earlier painting.

 

[John Loftus]

[ QUOTE ]
If you want the true original look, the Moss spray paint is the best way to go, at least that I know of.

[/ QUOTE ]

If you mean the factory paint quality had runs, holidays, overspray, orange peel or whatever you can 'replicate' that with a spray gun or spray can if you really wanted to. The Healey concours opinion is that the quality should not match a bad day at the factory (runs, overspray, etc.) but should match the quality of the specially prepped cars used for auto shows.

I doubt that anyone can tell the difference of a motor painted with Hirsh or Moss paints (unless there is a shade difference) because you can get good or bad results with both and they are both enamels. In fact, Hirsh offers their paint in spray cans and wouldn't be surprised if they package it for Moss.

Cheers,
John

 

[MotorHead67]

I believe there is a difference in the color. The Hirsch color is slightly darker and closer to the original factory color.

 

[CASCADEWILLY]

So, being as POR15 does not offer a true color to the Healey green then perhaps the best way to go would be the Hirsch product. Maybe the best way to go would be to primer with the POR15 product and finish with Hirsch paint.

Willy