Frame project slowly moves ahead

[Brosky]

Last night and this morning were the first chances that I had to tap out the threads in all of these parts to start to get ready for the reassembly, some day down the road.

It's tedious, but well worth it when everything goes back together smoothly. Now I've got to get all of the bolts & nuts separated and lined up for each set of parts. Maybe after the football games that will happen if the Red Sox game is a blowout.

 

[DNK]

Paul, do you use a ratchet for your tapping out the holes?

 

[martx-5]

I use machine (gun) taps in a reversible electric drill for re-threading. The spiral point allow these taps to enter the hole without any cross threading. Well, you have to be reasonably perpendicular to the hole. I've tried this with regular hand taps, and have all sorts of problems. If you have a ton of holes to rethread, it's worth investing in the few sizes you need.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] Paul, do you use a ratchet for your tapping out the holes?[/QUOTE]

No Don, old school guy like me uses tap handle and plenty of cutting oil, which in this case was just WD40. I only go into the threads until it binds, go 1/4 turn, back out, flush and start over again. Slow process, but nice when done.

I may look into some of those other taps that Art mentions, just to have them in my set. The 5/16's and 3/8's X 24 got a work out this time around and nothing lasts forever. I would hate to break one of those (from fatigue) inside a part and have to waste hours getting it out.

 

[DNK]

I can see that if you are cutting new threads but aren't you pretty much just cleaning old threads up?.

 

[Brosky]

You are correct, but I still do it the slow way. I've found that the crap that can be in some threads hides rust and that can make things go wrong quickly if you are going too fast.

Many years ago I broke a tap in an Olds 455 engine block when I was "just cleaning" up the head bolt threads. It took me over four hours to get that thing out and I almost had to pull the block. Luckily, it was in the center and the break was clean and flat. Not a lot of fun on Saturday afternoon when you're supposed to be somewhere else.

I guess that memory just sticks with me. I will never start a project unless I have time to do it the way that I want, or if I can turn out the lights and pick it up tomorrow or another day. Far less mistakes made that way.

 

[DNK]

Paul, why are you on the forum instead of out in the garage reaming those holes with taps?

 

[Soup]

Paul, very, very nice!

I'll be upgrading my entire suspension with a friend fairly soon and definately over the winter months. My friend is an American made type mechanic but seems to enjoy working on my LBC too. Since he's experienced and I'm learning I always relie on him for the bigger jobs. He has an early 60s convertible camero that is fairly original.

I'll clean and paint as many parts as possible. Love your idea of pre-purchasing and having the parts powder coated and entirly prepped for installation. You just may be the most thorough one on the forum.

 

[14dna]

Paul
I only want to know why your parts aren't powdercoated in many different colors like Tinster's. His suspension looks so good, it's cool. I agree with taking the time to get the threads done properly. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.
good job
Dave

 

[DougF]

There are also universal internal and external thread chasers. The external is available through Eastwood where you have a thumb screw that adjusts two floating blades. You just run the blades down onto the threads and spin the chaser around cleaning them as you go. The blades adjust automatically to any thread sizes. It can not be used as a die.
The internal chasers, I haven't seen them available from any retailer yet, have a finger with a thin moveable arm running against it that is regulated by a thumb screw. The thin arm has an a cutting blade attached to the end. The finger is inserted into the threaded hole. You then adjust the cutting arm with the thumbscrew to fit firmly against the threaded wall. The cutting blade self adjusts to the thread pitch. Spin until it exits the hole.
One of the nice things is if the entry of the hole is bunged up, you can catch it from behind without any worry of cross threading.
They only go as small as 5/16, but each tool will do a few sizes.
I've used both of these tools on car projects, and they work great.

 

[PeterK]

Paul
I only want to know why your parts aren't powdercoated in many different colors like Tinster's. His suspension looks so good, it's cool. I agree with taking the time to get the threads done properly. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.
good job
Dave

Tinster's colors always remind me of Family Handyman mag photos where they redo plumbing or something and paint all the different pieces a different color for illustration purposes. Truely unique and one of a kind on a TR6.

 

[Guest]

Paul, from your header, sounds as though you are going to go for a complete new frame. That is what I would do. Not necessarily buy a new frame (Ratco) but find a really clean OEM frame and start from scratch. What a great way to build the car up from the frame. Reinforcing everything, gussets here and there, reinforced towers, etc. Then, well, it goes from there.... The body-off-frame restoration! How fun!

 

[Guest]

Uuuuhhh, drop an aluminum Rover in there. YOU CAN DO IT!

 

[Brosky]

Ya, know, I knew that it was way too quiet around here lately. Bill is back and spending my cash like a wildman!!!

LOL!!!

Bill, while that is a great idea, it will be one better suited to the next owner of the car. We'll pull everything off, including every bit of the brake and fuel systems, clean and prep and seal and coat the entire under body and then build it all back with new/rebuilt parts.

This car will not have the frame removed. This car.....

You do realize that I will have taken off a complete suspension system that only needs to be powder coated someday to fit on a new Ratco frame that would support a Rover or Buick V8 very nicely.

Who knows, maybe someday that blacked out TR6 with wide tires and the rumbling exhaust will actually exist.

 

[Guest]

Even though we can tweak our little tractor motors, there is just so much one can do to make it really trick and still steetable. What I would give to have a small V8 with tons of torque and that magic rumble that would make the TR6 the ultimate LBC. Even a straight stock small-block, whether it be Ford, Buick or Chevy, would make the car ready to rumble.
Don't get me wrong, I love the sound and feel of my baby, but when I drove my friend's newly-restored TR8, I salivated.

 

[swift6]

Don't get me wrong, I love the sound and feel of my baby, but when I drove my friend's newly-restored TR8, I salivated.

Now you know why I have one of each! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

 

[DNK]

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

 

[Brosky]

Then again I can always hope a nice TR8 comes up for sale in New England.

 

[RonMacPherson]

I found that when I use cutting oil(from the snapon truck) my thread chasing goes a lot nicer, with a lot less resistance overthreading "rough" spots. I also acquired and find most helpful one of the ratcheting tap handles. A couple of different sizes because the tap bodies come in several different thicknesses. If you get a chance to try one, I think you will like it.

Also, I congratulate you on your treatment of the trailing arms. they look Extremely Nice!

 

[TR3driver]

https://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/DanMasters.htm