Cleaning and painting old wheels?

[Dad's54]

Hello everyone. I haven't posted in awile, just been lurking.

Can anyone tell me the best way to strip, clean, and repaint my 48 spoke wires? They are in pretty remarkable shape given how long they sat with no attention. My car was stored inside for around 42 years. All of the wheels have some surface rust but all of the spokes I've tried seem to turn without too much effort. I was considering sand blasting or bead blasting, but maybe there is a better way.

a few questions:

1) What is the best method for removing the old paint/rust?

2) What is a good quality and true to original paint?

3) How do you keep the spokes from getting stuck from the paint?

I really would like to keep my original wheels. Dayton wants around $140 ea to rebuild and I can buy new Dunlops for less than that.


Thanks!

Adam

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Adam,

It's been a while. Hope everything is going well for you.
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a few questions:

1) What is the best method for removing the old paint/rust?

Probably bead blasting.
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2) What is a good quality and true to original paint?

Something that is easy to find, easy to apply, & easy to touch up. Krylon #1403 (Dull Aluminum) over a good primer comes to mind.As good a match as any.
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3) How do you keep the spokes from getting stuck from the paint?

Tighten them before painting. But once the paint is set they will break loose anyway. Doesn't really matter.
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I really would like to keep my original wheels. Dayton wants around $140 ea to rebuild and I can buy new Dunlops for less than that.

If your wheels are fairly straight, no more than 1/8" runout side to side or vertical, Just tighten any loose spokes to the same "ping" as the rest & proceed. If they do have a lot of runout seek another remedy & don't waste time & money on them.
Checking wheels;
https://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/wirewheels.html

Be sure that the wheel splines & hubs are not worn beyond acceptable limits. Do this first!
Checking hub splines;
https://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/ThingsToDo.jpg
D

 

[Dad's54]

Thanks Dave!

Great info as always. I saved the links to my favorites and will check wheel/hub splines and runout before I go any further.

Best Regards!

AH

 

[Randy Forbes]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dad's54:
Thanks Dave!

Great info as always. I saved the links to my favorites and will check wheel/hub splines and runout before I go any further.

Best Regards!

AH<hr></blockquote>

Having once attempted to blast a wire wheel, I would suggest that you look into chemical stripping (alkaline immersion process, professionally done). There is a place here in Toledo that does this (entire car bodies to small parts), American Metal Cleaning (advertised in Hemmings too).

 

[Johnny]

I agree with Randy, chemical stripping is best and easiest. Personally I would buy new ones. Wait for a sale usually right about now. Moss offers discounts for whole sets (4/5). Having been stored for that long they are most likely way out of being "round" anymore.

 

[Dave Russell]

I admit that bead blasting is not the easiest thing to do.

Having once tried chemical stripping, hot tank caustic bath, I don't know what to think.

The process DID remove all paint & rust. It also got into the 180 or so joints in the wheel & couldn't be fully removed without complete disassembly of the wheel. I don't much like the idea of corrosive chemicals remaining in the many threaded joints & other tight spots. Also it seems to bleed out everytime the wheel gets wet & screws up the paint.
D

 

[Randy Forbes]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dave Russell:
I don't much like the idea of corrosive chemicals remaining in the many threaded joints & other tight spots. Also it seems to bleed out everytime the wheel gets wet & screws up the paint.
D<hr></blockquote>

Good point!

I've never tried the process, having always blasted everything in the past. But I was at the facility in Toledo and saw some of the results, I know I'll never blast another chassis/body.

As for wire wheels, well, you've seen my approach to them (I had my own hubs produced just to get away from them).

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha Adam,

In the past I have had wheels cleaned up with sand blasting. If you decide to go this way, make sure the grit is not too coarse, the metal surface can be heavily abraded and not give you a nice surface for a painted finish. I have used an aluminum colored epoxy spray paint with good results. As Dave Russell said, carefully check both hub and wheel splines, wear on one will lead to wear on the other. If you need new wheels, I concure with waiting for a sale. IMO the Daytons are better built than the Dunlop.

I always mount my own tires with tire irons as most tire shop machines can easily bend spokes. It is not that difficult with tire irons, a pair is probably less than $20 US.

I use a thin layer of silicone caulk on the inside of the hub to cover the heads of the spokes. This help keep hub grease from running down the spokes.

Safety Fast,
Dave

 

[Dad's54]

Thanks everyone, much to ponder.

First things first, I will start with checking the condition of the splines and for excessive runout. If they're shot then it solves my delema. VB has sets of 4 painted 48 spoke Dunlops for $500 right now, not bad.

If they are still good, I'll probably try media blasting first.

Thanks again!

AH