Brake fluid replacement

[Steve_in_Georgia]

After the Jaguar (62 XKE OTS) has been sitting with only intermittent rides over the last 4 years, I have decided to 'get serious' about enjoying it. Sooo, 2 weeks ago I started it up (It started as always, sitting there in the garage.)..but as I pulled out there was very little power and she was not idling well, cough, cough, sputter, backfire, etc. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif...Hmmm. Fast forward about ten days. I had removed the air cleaner, got out the Unisyn -for air flow, and with me and a friend, we got her back to nice idle and decent pickup with adjusting Mixtures, fast and slow idles, setting timing, cleaning plugs, regasketing banjo bolts, changing connecting rod and butterfly positions, and synching the three HD8 SU's. Sooo, backed her out again, and she ran nicely, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif idled down quickly, and settled on 1000 RPM for her idle speed..OK!... but of course, the brakes are mushy...and why not, the fluid has absorbed moisture and it has aged over 4 years. My question is, has anyone changed all the brake fluid in their systems and/or are there tricks that I need to know? I am going to use only Castrol DOT4 or equivalent...(not the silicon) and it should be compatible with the DOT4 I put in 4 years ago...but I want to remove as much as I can, but not get air into the system if I can help it. I need some clues as to what to look out for..and has anyone used the "One Man Bleeder" in Griot's Garage catalogue?...and how does that work? Any help would be appreciated...like in the next few days. Now that i'm on a roll, I don't want to get distracted by one of the other many projects lurking about the garage. Cheers! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[Biff]

Steve,

For a quick and easy brake system flush use this home made rig.
https://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
You will need a new cap for your master cylinder but this makes it a one person job. Hook it up and pump up the pressure and then go to the furthest brake bleeder and start bleeding till you get clean fluid coming out, then move to the next furthest bleeder. This way you will be pushing clean fluid from the master cylinder all the way through the system to each wheel. I made one and in a little over a half an hour bleed/flushed my entire system.

 

[Paul Johnson]

SiG
I did fluid changes countless times working in a Volvo/BMW dealer, where folks actually came to get it done annually.
Use something like a coffee can filled about 2/3 with water. Yup, water. Connect a hose to the bleeder and place the other deep in the water. Open the bleeder and begin pumping. The water will not - will not - come back up into the system. You can pump to your heart's content, keeping an eye on the fluid coming out. Normally a can per wheel is enough. When it begins coming out clean, start with another wheel, using fresh water again so you can see what's coming out. One man job, quick, clean, no air ever in the system, and cheap.

 

[steve99]

Yeah but in this day and age, how do you safely dispose of what you have left in the coffee can?

 

[Steve_in_Georgia]

Thanks..Will Do tonight, and will build the Ace Sprayer pump later..Instructions look easy, and with a few olde cars, It'll pay for itself!...great help! Of course, the 1931 Model A has mechanical brakes, no fluid, no worries!

 

[Rippthrough]

You can bleed brakes by putting the other end of the tube in water? I didn't know that. Thanks - I was just about to waste £35 on a one man kit!
P.S. - I've got DOT 4 in the car atm - if I want to replace with 5.1 stuff how do I go about it? Can I just top up with the new stuff until it starts running through?

 

[piman]

Hello Steve,
you say "not Silicon", but that is the ideal brake fluid for a car that stands for long period, no water absorbtion so minimal corrosion. You do not need to do the regular brake fluid change with it. I have used Silicon brake fluid for more than twenty years with no problems at all, cost excepted, (probably repaid in less brake component maintenance and lower consumption.) no 'soft pedal' as is often quoted as a negative with it.

Alec

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]
You can bleed brakes by putting the other end of the tube in water? I didn't know that. Thanks - I was just about to waste £35 on a one man kit!
P.S. - I've got DOT 4 in the car atm - if I want to replace with 5.1 stuff how do I go about it? Can I just top up with the new stuff until it starts running through?

[/ QUOTE ]
I think that DOT 5.1 is compatable with DOT 4, so as you suggest should be OK. On the other hand, you may not notice much benefit with DOT 5.1 over DOT 4. One possible problem is that the bleeder screw threads sometimes don't seal very tightly & air will re enter at the joint. A wrap of "Teflon" tape around the bleeder screw threads will help seal them.
D

 

[Rippthrough]

Replaced fluid - no more spongy brakes, yay.
Then I noticed the small dribble of oil from the head gasket.
I never seem to stop fixing things.

 

[tr8Fan]

Rippthrough, Did you replace the brake fluid by putting the tube end in water? I've never heard of this. Sounds interesting though....

 

[Rippthrough]

yes, works a treat, I assume its because the water is a much heavier fluid than the brake fluid is. Now, anyone know a quick way to change a head gasket...... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif

 

[piman]

Hello Dave,
a little point, the bleed nipples don't seal on the thread, but the bleed screw taper end seals on the bottom of the port.
If there is a leakage either the port or the screw is damaged.
As an aside, many years ago there were bleed screws sold which used a spring loaded ball, and bleeding was easily accomplished by slackning off the screw a few turns and then pump. The spring loaded ball sealed the cylinder\caliper on the up stroke of the pedal.

Alec.

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]
Hello Dave,
a little point, the bleed nipples don't seal on the thread, but the bleed screw taper end seals on the bottom of the port.
Alec.

[/ QUOTE ]
This, I am aware of. I thought it was clear that I meant that the threads can leak air when the bleeders are unscrewed/unseated during the bleeding process. This negates the effect of the submerged hose since it provides another point for air reentry. Hope it is clear now. I will try to better describe things in the future.
D