Best Electronic Ignition?

[SherpaPilot]

What is the best electronic ignition conversion to use on a TR-6? I know there are several types on the market and was wondering if one is better than the other?

 

[tdskip]

I've been happy with my Pertronix - I had Jeff rebuilt by distributor and install it the unit for me.

Easy install back on to the car.

 

[LastDeadLast]

Depends on what you're looking for and what level of performance.

- At the low end there is Pertonix, which keeps the existing distributor while only swapping out the guts. it's inexpensive and reliable.
- Next would be the Crane setup, which is more extensive than the Petronix, but still maintains the stock dizzy. Although I've read that the Crane is arguably more performance oriented than the Pertronix.
- The next level up would be a dizzy swap out, using a Mallory or the like. This is what I've done. it eliminates the dizzy (which in my opinion is the weak link) and replaces it with a proven product. The big downsides to this option are price and the fact that the tach will have to be converted to electronic (which has it's pluses as well)
- The final level would be some type of crank triggered system that would replace the dizzy altogether. This would almost certainly involve some custom fab work, but if done right, would be the best solution of all the ones I've listed. If I ever build another Triumph motor, I will do this.

 

[prb51]

The MSD6 unit will increase performance and has been bomb proof for me.

 

[TR3driver]

Kind of depends on what your definition of "best" is, IMO.

If you just want to get out of changing points and keep a nearly-stock look, then the Pertronix is probably best.

If your dizzy is a little worn but you want to limp along with it for a few more years, then one of the optical trigger units (like the Crane XR700) is probably better.

And so on all the way up to the distributor-less system Shannon mentioned.

One interesting concept is at
https://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/hitachi.pdf

Unless the DIS systems have come down a lot in price by then, my plan for my next "fast road" motor is an optical trigger (Crane XR700) firing a MSD6 box. My experience is that the MSD6 brings some problems of it's own (mostly a tendency to toast any high voltage component that's marginal), but I've otherwise been very happy with the (point-triggered) unit on my TR3A.

BTW, IMO none of these are going to increase power on a stock engine, when compared to the original setup in good condition (and perhaps recurved for modern fuels). The stock motor just isn't that hard to light off, so increased spark energy does nothing. Any improvement is going to be in places like easier starts, and more tolerance of worn-out components. If you're just looking for more "go fast", your money would be better spent on cam & compression first.

 

[RonMacPherson]

What is best?

Depends, as this is an opinion and that is connected to what your circumstances are-distributor shaft and bushing connections, plug wire shape, etc. And what your goal is.

I've read a lot of warnings and of problems with the Petronix on this forum and on 6-pack.

I installed an Allison optical on my distributor in 87. Allison was purchased by Crane since then. Works great, guaranteed for life. Easy to install. Even if your shaft bushings and cam lobes are worn, no problem.
I also installed an MSD 6 multistrike(hiding it inside by the glovebox, on it's 2nd car transfer0. I've transferred this distributor/ignition system to it's 3rd 6. The only problems I have incurred have been failures of rotors and once I obtained a proper Lucas rotor and cap, no problem(stay away from Bosch with the MSD 6).

So, for easy installation, drive it and forget it, I recommend to go with the Crane and MSD

 

[piman]

Hello Randall,

"BTW, IMO none of these are going to increase power on a stock engine, when compared to the original setup in good condition (and perhaps recurved for modern fuels). The stock motor just isn't that hard to light off, so increased spark energy does nothing. Any improvement is going to be in places like easier starts, and more tolerance of worn-out components. If you're just looking for more "go fast", your money would be better spent on cam & compression first."

I have to agree wholeheartedly with you there. I see so many posts regarding electronic ignition and how much it improves performance. It is not a cure for worn components and neither is it a performance upgrade for units in proper working order.
It does save having to adjust the points but in reality, that is not that difficult (unless you happent to have a TR7 with that horrible delco Remy unit) or frequent a job.

Alec

 

[SherpaPilot]

Thanks to all who responded. Your advice is well taken and now all I need to do is a little shopping. I like the idea of moving towards a Mallory distributor as well as the tach modification but I will need to research the tach mod as well. Thanks again for your help.

 

[LastDeadLast]

I have to agree with Randall as well here. I've done quite a bit to my motor; Triple carbs, 10:1 compression, cam, roller rockers and headers so an upgrade to the ignition system was warranted. After going through 4 or 5 rotors and two dizzies, I scrapped them all for the Mallory. For me, it was a great upgrade. However, it took a lot of research and time to get right.

All being said, if I had a stock motor with all the ignition problems that I experienced listed above, I'd still get the Mallory.

 

[piman]

Hello Shannon,

how do you set up the advance curve when you change the distributor, or do Mallory make a replacement suitable for the TR6?
Incidentally I have a TR5 engine in my Triumph saloon, also 10:1, injection, 6-3-1 exhaust, ported head, but standard rockers and standard Lucas distributor with points. I find it runs well with this set and really pulls from 4,000 to 6,000 rpm.

Alec