TR6 Are you happy with your TR6 clutch pedal play?

[Guest]

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[Brosky]

I don't really have any play to speak of in my pedal. With a hydraulic clutch system, there shouldn't really be any, aside from the normal worn parts in a 30 plus year old car.

I bought the adjustable linkage. A waste of money as it is now the exact same length as the stock rod was.

It does look nice, though....

I'll tune in tomorrow for the updates.

Night all......

 

[DNK]

Early night for Paul.

 

[johnbellavance]

Hi Stirkle, are you sure that you have the slave cy'l mounted properly? If they are mounted on the wrong surface the would need about a 1" longer rod.
John

 

[Norton47]

Also if the pin for the throwout bearing fork is sheared part way, you need a longer throw also. I just fixed this on a friends TR6. Someone had mounted the slave cylinder on spacers to move it aft to allow the normal rod to work.
The clutch feel has a very distinct over center feel and had quick engagement. Felt like it went to the floor.

 

[Guest]

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[piman]

Hello Stirkle,

the slave cylinder automatically adjusts the clutch clearance, or should do if all else is correct. An adjustable rod is just a waste of money. The only way that will not work if a strong return spring has been added to the slave push rod. The slave piston is not meant to return to the end of the cylinder.

Alec

 

[AltaKnight]

Do you have any looseness in the clutch pedal to MC connection, these typically oval out creating a bunch of slack that gets taken up before you see any effect on the MC. I don't think a longer slave rod will help take any of that up

 

[KAllen]

Good point on the mounting John+ Mine came with the slave mounted on the engine side not the tranny side - so it was too short. And someone welded on a piece of steel on the bracket that messed up mounting of the slave properly - had to grind it off - Now I have seen Brosky's site with a return spring (look at the new pics of his frame redo) - I really like that Idea to keep the TO bearing off the Pressure place as much as possible so I am gonna experiment with a similar set up -

 

[Geo Hahn]

Do you have any looseness in the clutch pedal to MC connection, these typically oval out creating a bunch of slack that gets taken up before you see any effect on the MC. I don't think a longer slave rod will help take any of that up

I too can't see how a longer slave would improve anything.

I had the slack described caused by the ovaled out hole in the top of the pedal (clever of them to make the easily replaceable clevis pin out of harder metal than the pedal). After seeing the stop bolts used on early TR3s I added a pair to my TR3A. Not really needed on the brake pedal but takes up that slack on the clutch pedal. Left a skosh of float in there so there it no chance of keeping pressure on the system.

Makes for a much nicer pedal feel.

Yes, I know that oiling that pedal connection would prevent the oval, if I ever get my cyberspace time machine I will send that info back to the POs.

Yes, I also know that the bracket should be black not body color, when one of the M/Cs finally needs rebuilding, the bracket will get repainted.

 

[TR3driver]

I too can't see how a longer slave would improve anything.

Can't explain it either; but spacing the slave nearer the lever (which should have the same effect as a longer pushrod) definitely helped just a little bit with my first Stag. Before doing it, I had to pump up the clutch to get into reverse, afterwards it didn't drag (but I still had to press the pedal firmly to the floor).

 

[BryanC]

So, has anyone tried the "long throw" clutch slave cylinder that BPNW sells? They claim a 30% longer throw than stock.

Bryan

 

[Telly]

Do you have any looseness in the clutch pedal to MC connection, these typically oval out creating a bunch of slack that gets taken up before you see any effect on the MC. I don't think a longer slave rod will help take any of that up

This happened to my TR6. Could this be bushed out or welded and redrilled to make it round again?

 

[TR3driver]

Could this be bushed out or welded and redrilled to make it round again?

Sure, not hard at all other than getting everything disassembled.

A simpler, stop-gap measure can be to just ream the holes oversize and use a larger pin. I was able to do that on my Stag without disassembling anything but the pin. You might have to take things apart on a TR6, though.

 

[Guest]

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[Brosky]

Now I understand what you were trying to explain earlier.

 

[TR3driver]

On a '6, there is supposed to be a spring inside the slave cylinder, that holds the piston and rod out against the lever. So no free play at the point you show.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] On a '6, there is supposed to be a spring inside the slave cylinder, [/QUOTE]

That is correct. I wonder if his is missing??

 

[Guest]

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[Brosky]

I don't think it should pop out, because they are shipped in an "unrestrained condition" when either new or rebuilt, but if you compress it, I would think that it should spring back a bit.