TR2/3/3A Radiator Air Deflector / Shroud

af3683 · Jul 7, 2014

I recently became aware that I'm supposed to have a fiberboard radiator air deflector / shroud on my TR3B. I've read some of the prior posts from folks who have recently installed them and have a few additional questions. I assume these air deflectors are supposed to direct all of the air entering through the grill directly to the radiator, and not around it, in order to assist in the cooling process. I would appreciate knowing
if folks that have installed these air deflectors have noticed a big difference in cooling? Do you have a preference between the TRF 3-piece version, and the Moss version which appears to be one piece. Finally, have you primed and painted the air deflectors? Thank you.

Art

mrv8q · Jul 7, 2014

Hey, Art, I bought the TRF shroud 8 years ago, to replace the tired original shroud. Don't know about any difference in temp, but the TRF shroud has held up very well; though it's never seen rain. I didn't take Geo's advice to prime/paint my shroud.

HTH!

Geo Hahn · Jul 7, 2014

I find it is hard to tell 'seat of the pants' which things I have done really help with cooling -- I just do lots of stuff and the net result is good.

I have always used the assembled version of the shroud (apparently the Moss version) which is 3 pieces but comes already riveted together. The fit was fine.

I painted the front body color (that is what was original I believe). I did something to the back side -- black paint? Thompson's Waterseal? What ever you do I would not leave it unfinished as water will not be kind to bare fibreboard.

af3683 · Jul 10, 2014

I received my radiator air deflector / shroud and was examining how to approached putting it on the car. It looks like the only way to possibly remove the grill (without the added work of removing the bumper) might be to remove the carriage bolts that hold the overrider support tubes to the end of the overriders, then remove the washers and nuts holding the overrider support tubes to the wheel wells, and then remove the support tubes with the carriage bolts in them through the grill. Can anyone tell me if I'm correct or am I missing something. Thank you.

Art

Got_All_4 · Jul 10, 2014

They are supposed to be painted the body color. I just took mine out a couple of months ago after it has been in the car for 30 years and it has held up well for being paper. However I am going to replace it and some how seal the edges because the old one the layers on the edges are separating.

TR4nut · Jul 11, 2014

af3683 said:
I received my radiator air deflector / shroud and was examining how to approached putting it on the car. It looks like the only way to possibly remove the grill (without the added work of removing the bumper) might be to remove the carriage bolts that hold the overrider support tubes to the end of the overriders, then remove the washers and nuts holding the overrider support tubes to the wheel wells, and then remove the support tubes with the carriage bolts in them through the grill. Can anyone tell me if I'm correct or am I missing something. Thank you.

Art

Art-

That works fine - I did exactly that when I installed a pusher fan. Support tubes removed first, then grill, no problems at all.

Randy

toysrrus · Jul 11, 2014

TR4nut said:
Art-

That works fine - I did exactly that when I installed a pusher fan. Support tubes removed first, then grill, no problems at all.

Randy

Randy, Did you install a "Pusher Fan" on a TR3 or 4? If it was a TR3; I`m guessing you somehow got it thru the grille opening etc etc without removing / moving the front apron? How did you do that & what size was the fan?

Thanx, Russ

TR4nut · Jul 11, 2014

Russ-

Yes I did on my 3A - sorry, I bought the fan so long ago I'm not sure of the size at the moment but with a little detective work I can let you know. I used a trick Geo showed a long time ago in terms of mounting it - I made up some angled rod to use as clamps and ranthe rod along the side of the radiator to secure the fan - fan was big enough that I could do that. And yes, if you pull the grill you can install the fan. I was also able to keep the deflector although I removed it during the fan installation.

Randy

Geo Hahn · Jul 11, 2014

TR4nut said:
...I used a trick Geo showed a long time ago in terms of mounting...

Redux. I used a 12" fan, the pics are of the TR4 but sis the same thing on my TR3A:

Decapitated and bent some bolts:

Used short lengths of fuel ine for cushioning:

Had to oval out the holes in the mounting tabs to allow the bolts to clear the side of the radiator:

Tabs snapped into place on the 12" fan:

Fan mounted to radiator:

You will be working in tighter quarters inside the TR3A bonnet, but the fitment is the same. I think you will want to mount the fan before you mount the shroud.

The fan you use may differ and you may find a better variation of mounting -- what I have shown is just one way to mount one particular fan.

toysrrus · Jul 12, 2014

Hey Geo;

Thats some great info & pics!!!!

Thanx, Russ

toysrrus · Jul 18, 2014

Geo,

It appears that your "Elec. Fan" is a "Universal Fit" with several mounting areas for the brackets; Correct?

I`m looking at a bunch of "Universal Fit"; Push/Pull, 12Volt, 12" Dia fans on ebay for about $26.00 shipped (Cheap)!!

Some show "Flat" blades & some show "Curved" blades. I would think the "Curved" blades would be a better but I`m looking for suggestions.

Also; They show CFM ranging from 1100 upwards of 1750. What are some suggestions relative to the CFM?

I`ll get this darn thing "Dialed-In" sooner or later. I`m simply looking for the "Easiest" way to make it happen!!!!

Thanx Again,

Russ

Geo Hahn · Jul 18, 2014

toysrrus said:
It appears that your "Elec. Fan" is a "Universal Fit" with several mounting areas for the brackets; Correct?...

Yes, just a cheap one from a FLAPS:

I do not know the CFM.

Mine had curved blades but I don't think that is a big deal either way -- if fact you may be better off with flat blades as you will be reversing the rotation to use the fan as a 'pusher'.

6TTR3A · Jul 18, 2014

Usually, with a "Universal" unit, you reverse the fan blades along with the rotation.

Got_All_4 · Jul 18, 2014

If the blades are straight and being DC current I think you can reverse the polarity to reverse the air flow without any problems.

toysrrus · Jul 19, 2014

My TR is "Positive Ground".

What does that mean relative to wiring a "Flat" bladed Elec Fan? Pos. to Pos?? Pos. to Neg??

Thanx, Russ

PS: It will be used in the "Pusher" function mounted on the front of the Rad.

Geo Hahn · Jul 19, 2014

I think you will want to wire positive to negative as you are reversing the rotation (for a pusher) compared to the usual set-up.

The unit is usually all plastic so not grounded as such -- you can easily connect it temporarily to confirm which way it is blowing.

When I had one I powered the hot (negative, fused) side and ran the ground side to a switch under the dash. Just one wire that way.

martx-5 · Jul 19, 2014

Got_All_4 said:
If the blades are straight and being DC current I think you can reverse the polarity to reverse the air flow without any problems.

Be careful, some fans, such as my Spal, have permanent magnets and can run in only one direction.

TR3TR6 · Jul 19, 2014

Art, I still have the positive ground on my car and all I did when installing my fan was connect the wires, check the direction of air flow and reversed the wires if it wasn't correct. Getting back to the shroud, one of the guys here made a shroud out of sheet metal using the cardboard one as a pattern and painted it the same color as his car. It really looked good and will probably last as long as the car.

Geo Hahn · Jul 19, 2014

I just came a across a photo I have of mine (apron off) when I still used the electric fan:

Might give some idea of how I mounted it -- I did the mounting with the apron still in place. I also knocked out the grid work at the bottom of the fan so I could still use the hand crank. Just had to insert the crank slowly (good idea anyway) so it would push the blade out of the way if it happened to be covering the hole.

TR3driver · Jul 19, 2014

martx-5 said:
Be careful, some fans, such as my Spal, have permanent magnets and can run in only one direction.

They are pretty much all permanent magnet motors; which means they will turn the other direction if you switch the leads. It's motors with wound fields that turn the same direction regardless of polarity (like the original heater and wiper motors on a TR3).

Check the instructions with the fan; some do say to reverse the blades for more efficient air flow, others do not.

CFM is a lot like horsepower; more is better so manufacturers find ways to give higher ratings that may bear little resemblance to reality. My 12" Hayden is only rated for 675 cfm through a "typical" radiator, but that seems to be enough for me. With my homebrew controller that measures the radiator outlet temp, the fan never runs for as much as a minute before shutting off again.

Eventually, I want to try building a variable speed controller, but haven't gotten there yet. I intend to also allow it to run for a few minutes after shutdown, to see if that helps reduce hard starting when hot.

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TR2/3/3A Radiator Air Deflector / Shroud

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