Spin on oil conversion correction completed

Install a spin-on oil converter late last summer and everything seemed fine until a few weeks ago during the standard winter maintenance run up I noticed a fresh long trail of oil on the floor as I backed the car out. What The ???? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Found out the pulsating leak came from where the spin on converter bolts to the canister mount. When cold, as the engine cranks, the oil pumps to the new spin on filter and pulsated passed the seal, onto the garage floor, as the car warmed up and the pressure equalized it stopped. Removed the fitting, cleaned up all parts, checked the seals and all is in good order, applied another light layer of top shelf gasket goo to the existing gasket, re-attached the spin on converter housing and let it set up. No more leak. I guess the engineering on these things can be a small bit off. Great break in the weather yesterday and took little Ruthie for a good long run. Wonderful day, she ran great. Now on return, the garage floor has just the usuall small drip spots that we all know LBC's leave behind. Just wondering if others have faced any small issues with a spin on oil conversion installation. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF

Took me 2 tries to get the one on the TR3A to seal properly. I think it is a 'par 3' so we both get birdies.

Be careful of them vibrating off over time, too. I've heard stories of them loosening up and leaking oil. A routine check from time to time and you shouldn't have any vibration problems.

Larry, had the same problem on my buddies and as it was summer and he wanted to go, we put the old system back on. May try again this spring. Wayne

Mine took a couple of times to quit leaking also. Then I had to screw with the angle to keep contact points to a minimum. When I was done, I did not think it was worth it.

I have heard of guys over cranking to hard on the mounting bolt and braking out the casting on the block. Again, like the rest of you, I had problems with sealing up the leaks. But from what I read, this style of filter mount, is a better design for engine startup lubrication.

I have one on my Tr3 and it seals well. The problem 'happens' at oil changes when you unscrew the filter as you can also slightly unscrew the primary bolt allowing vibration etc. to unseat the whole deal. Retorque the bolt to 15 Ft lbs at changes and shouldn't have a problem - hand tighten the filter. First post, 'case of beer'.

I think the instructions with the adaptor said to use Red Loctite... guess this may be why. But I chickened out... wanted to be able to get the dingus off again if it didn't seal first time out.

Thank g-d for Loctite! I use it freely and never have a problem getting it aloose. Again I use the appropriate one for the application. That, and I never reuse split washers or Nyloc nuts. Only use all-metal locknuts and Loctite on drivetrain flange.

Bill

I went to Pep Boys and bought a thicker o-ring to seal the adaptor to the engine block. This stopped a huge leak that was created by the thin o-ring included in the adaptor kit. We have not had a leak since I put the larger o-ring in. In the Spring I will re-tighten the adaptor when I change the oil.

Mocal addressed this problem some time ago by replacing the old style O-ring with the spring-loaded type. This provides a more efficient seal with the block flange.