Steering box - Pitman arm removal method work?

I have the dreaded steering box leak. I'm trying to avoid spending $150 for a Stahlwille #12616 puller which is what a search of the posts suggests to get the pitman arm off.

Will this work: BJ8, loosen the steering column clamps under the dash, remove the 3 steering box bolts, pitman arm bolts and slide the steering box forward a few inches so it can be reached with a conventional puller. From the looks of it, I might not even have to remove the adjustable steering wheel to gain a few inches.

Plan B: This scares me a little. Disconnect the linkages, remove the steering box cover and push the rocker shaft up with a bottle jack until the pitman arm loosens (alternatively, jack the car position the bottle jack and lower the car slightly). I'm concerned about bending the rocker shaft. Anyone try this?

Any other suggestions? Other pullers?

I tried a 3 leg puller on my pitman arm. After liberal soaking with penatrant over two weeks, I could not get enough force to get the arm off before the puller slipped off. I finally bought a pitman arm puller from NAPA for about $40. The arms were a little wide, so I weld them closer. 10 min later, the arm was off. You might have room for one of these pullers while the box is still in the car. Never with a 3 leg puller.

Note: there are two seals in MOSS catalog. Don't order the wrong one, don't ask me how I made that mistake!

Jerry
BJ8

You could try this method. Go here:
https://www.healeysurgeons.com/faq.php
Scroll down to "How to Replace A Steering Box Seal".

I don't really think that hammering the rocker shaft against the worm, as this would do, is a good idea.
D

YIKES!! with Dave!!


Ed

I successfully removed my pitman arm while in the car without loosening anything on the steering system. I used a Sears adjustable length two-armed puller. It wasn't easy getting it in there and on the pitman arm but it popped right off when the screw was applied.

How big was this puller? Do you have a link?

This little block worked wonders. It's as thick as the gap (once the styrofoam was removed) and a quick tap was all it took to free the arm.

Why don't you make a few and sell them. I'll be your first customer! Or at least send drawings and I will get them made.

Andy65 said:

Why don't you make a few and sell them. I'll be your first customer! Or at least send drawings and I will get them made.

Click to expand...

Just throw a piece of scrap steel in your milling machine, anyone can make them :wink:

I would not give any more than a very gentile tap on this block. The force could be translated into driving the pin into the worm gear and then in turn onto the bearings which are quite small. There is a washer but who knows the clearance. Might be a good idea to remove the pin first. It appears the block has threaded holes to push with if needed.

This is how I justify tools - trying to avoid buying a $150 puller, I'll buy a $250 drill stand and milling tool to make a $10 part. How many of us have done that before!

Andy65 said:

I would not give any more than a very gentile tap on this block. The force could be translated into driving the pin into the worm gear and then in turn onto the bearings which are quite small. There is a washer but who knows the clearance. Might be a good idea to remove the pin first. It appears the block has threaded holes to push with if needed.

This is how I justify tools - trying to avoid buying a $150 puller, I'll buy a $250 drill stand and milling tool to make a $10 part. How many of us have done that before!

Click to expand...

No guarantee they're all this way, but when using a hammer, I always do a tap (for aim) then smack (for impact). The arm came off with the tap and I never got to do the smack; it actually came off before I was ready, and startled me.

Must be living right...