@$##@@~!%32-313412-34!!!!!! Frickety Frack and curse words that will get me banned by Basil. Got all done, dropped the car off of jack stands and went to tighten lug nuts. Was tightening with 16" breaker bar ratchet and did not over ly tighten. Was snugging up prior to putting torque wrench on the lug nut to 45 lbs. Got PS Complete, went around to DS and at this point was anxious to go out and drive Bugsy. One litle bit of extra pull, almost tight, and SNAP!!!!!!!
Broke off a lug nut and of course everyone stocks 3/8" x 24 wheel studs. Bugsy is down for the count until I can find another 3/8" x 24 Wheel Stud. BTW I did find out Polaris ATV's utilize a 3/8" x 24 wheel stud. Put that in your useful bits of trivia information for future reference when you break a wheel stud and parts from the usual suspects are days away by mail.
I've got to go rumage in my big box of LBC nuts and bolts and see if there is a wheel stud and a nut in there in there. It is a box of all sorts of junk but otherwise I'm off of the road until tomorrow or maybe later in local LBC shop does not have anything available.
RE Wheel Bearing replacement. Lessons Learned
Removing old bearings: very simple, but wheel hub on top of Workmate and clamped between jaws. Sprayed with Brake Cleaner so I could see what was underneath. In a minute or two slots in the hub were very apparent. Found the biggest screwdriver in my toolbox and my 5 lb persuader. Alternated slots, carefully lined up screwdriver and with fairly gentle taps was able to drive out first the inner race, ball bearings all over the floor, more cleaning with brake cleaner, and then the outer race with just a few taps. Inner spacer dropped out, flipped over the hub and repeated the process. Second hub took like 2 minutes to complete.
Reinstalling bearings: If one side is labelled thrust, that side points towards the other bearing labelled thrust. If not a diagram posted on this list in the last 2-3 days shows another methods for identifying the thrust side. A 1 5/16" socket is perfect for installing the smaller bearing and the outer race turned over was perfect for installing the inner bearing. I used a small brass hammer to tap the socket / outer race.
I found no need to cut the outer race as Peter C. suggested to use as an installation tool. The race is tapered and the taper is enough to get the bearing in place and not get stuck. And Peter C., believe me I tried, not sure what those bearings are made of, but they resisted all attempts to even nick the edge with either my band saw or a hacksaw in the vise.
Reinstaling calipers - Make sure the metal tab on the strap that goes between the caliper bolts is peened over. That is your lockwasher, to keep the calipers attached to the car. I found PS caliper bolts really, really, loose as tab was not properly peened over. A safety lesson to all. I know someone here on the list had a caliper fall off recently. This is an important Spring safety tip. When lubing everyhing up there make sure calipers are properly tightened.
Wheel Stud Replacement - unscrew 4 bolts holding hub to rotor, place hub in vise and tighten. Place Center Punch in the middle if broken wheel stud and smack with 5 lb persuader. 2-3 smacks will easily drive out wheel stud.
Time to go out and rummage in the3 garage and see if I can find a wheel stud and nut.