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TR2/3/3A TR3 Cylinder Liner Install Question

PatGalvin

Jedi Warrior
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Good morning all.

I'm installing new TR3 cylinder liners this week. From the Service Manual, it indicates the liners should stand proud of the block top deck by about 0.005" and it shows how to measure this with a feeler gauge and straight edge. So, I'd apply the Wellseal, fit the figure eight gaskets, and install liners. Do I apply substantial pressure to the liners before I measure the liner/top deck relationship? Torque down head? Hand pressure? I assume that one needs to apply some pressure to top of liners to seat them prior to taking this important measurement. Thanks again the the forum for all the help!

Pat
 

JKB1957

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I would dry fit the liners first, take measurements, and then go from there. I used fender washers and lengths of pipe to set the liners in the block and keep them there when I installed the pistons/crank. The liners can shift when you flip the engine to install the bottom end. They were a very tight fit going in, and once they bottomed out they were spot on for 0.005". One thing I did do was to make sure the flange where the liners sit was absolutely clean of scale and rust and then use a very light coat of permatex on the figure "8" gasket. This was good advice from a friend who had rebuilt a TR3 engine several years before. Good luck. Actually we have a group of TR people here in Contra Costa County, not to far from you. If you run into problems send me a PM amd if I can't help, probably someone else in our group can.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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:iagree:
except don't bother with a "dry fit" first. Clean the seats, apply the Permatex, seat the liners and go.

Be sure to measure the liner protrusion on both sides. I've had two TR3 engines in a row now where it wasn't high enough only on one side, and had a lot of trouble with leaking head gaskets before I found the problem (and a workaround).
 
OP
PatGalvin

PatGalvin

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How do you seat the liners so you can take a proper measurement? Use big flat washers and push down? Or press down manually?

And what was your workaround when liners weren't high enough on one side (I'm sure I'm not the only one who wonders this)?

Thanks Randall

Pat
 

NickMorgan

Jedi Knight
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It's a long time since I did mine, but after making sure that everything was really clean I pressed them in as far as I could by hand and then knocked them in using some wood to cushion them. There was no way I could have dry fitted them as it is a bit of a struggle to get them in, and more of a struggle to get them out! Maybe it was luck, but they seemed to fit perfectly and I didn't have any trouble with how far they protruded from the block.
Good luck.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I tapped mine in using a brass hammer.

Workaround was to lay a piece of 20 AWG "half hard" copper wire up against the stock fire ring, and tack it in place with soft solder. I first did that on my TR3A (which had an earlier TR3 block in it) many years ago; then more recently repeated it on the 'project' TR3 after it's headgasket started leaking (and measurements confirmed at least one liner was low on the manifold side).

DSCF0020.jpg


No doubt there are other methods, and of course it would be best to address the problem properly (by having the block remachined). But the workaround held fine for quite a few years on the TR3A, and this got me back on the road quickly. Maybe someday I'll find time to build a "hot rod" motor and get it right, but in the meantime ...
:driving: :driving: :driving:
 

Mike62TR3

Freshman Member
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I tapped mine in using a brass hammer.

Workaround was to lay a piece of 20 AWG "half hard" copper wire up against the stock fire ring, and tack it in place with soft solder. I first did that on my TR3A (which had an earlier TR3 block in it) many years ago; then more recently repeated it on the 'project' TR3 after it's headgasket started leaking (and measurements confirmed at least one liner was low on the manifold side).

DSCF0020.jpg


No doubt there are other methods, and of course it would be best to address the problem properly (by having the block remachined). But the workaround held fine for quite a few years on the TR3A, and this got me back on the road quickly. Maybe someday I'll find time to build a "hot rod" motor and get it right, but in the meantime ...
:driving: :driving: :driving:

Randell, so maybe i am just missing something, what happens with the solder? won't this affect the seating for compression?

Mike E. 62 TR 3A
 
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