TR6 TR-6 Rear Trailing Arm Brackets..Success!!

[Mark_Gibson]

I just got done replacing my old brackets with the Goodparts adjustable set up. Took me an hour per side and what an improvement on the old hit or miss camber adjustment! It's a great idea and thanks to all on the forum who recommended them.

Mark /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

 

[trboost]

Mark,
I've heard of a couple of remarks about excessive shims & washers being used. Did you have any of this?
I imagine you removed the trailing arms to do this, If there are any short cuts start talk'n.

 

[Mark_Gibson]

Mitch,

I am taking the car to have a 4 wheel alignment soon. I'll let y'all know the verdict once that's done as far as needing extra shims. I just put the shims back in as they were with the original brackets. No extra washers needed, and yes, the trailing arms have to be removed to do this mod. I'm already seeing a more neutral camber setting as it is with the car back on the ground. Only real pain in the whole process is rebleeding the rear brakes!

Mark

 

[LastDeadLast]

When I installed my adjustable brackets, I wasn't able to install all the original shims because the bolts supplied with the kit weren't long enough to accommodate all the shims. When I got car aligned, turns out I didn't need them anyway... as a matter of fact he removed some of the shims that I did keep. He loved those brackets, I think my mechanic was dreading the job until he found out that I had the new brackets.

-Shannon

 

[SCguy]

I'm about to do my rear end. So... what I'm hearing is that the shims go back in? I thought the idea of the adjustable brackets it that the shims are not needed. Please advise! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Guest]

Pardon my naivte', but why go throught the expense of installing adjustable brackets on something that can be set with shims by a competant alignment shop, and forgotten!
Once they are set properly, they are done. The bracket does nothing that a good set of shims won't do. Where am I wrong? If there were some need to adjust the alignment of the rear trailing arm over time, perhaps. But how often would one be doing this? Sounds like overkill to me.

Bill

 

[SCguy]

Bill,
I think your right, but adjusting with shims is a little hit or miss from what I've read. With the brackets the adjustment is easy and more accurate. At least that's why I bought the brackets?

 

[LastDeadLast]

Bill,

Shims for the most part don't affect camber, only toe. Unless you change the mounting brackets (I think different years where slightly different), there is no camber adjustment on a TR6. With Richard Good's brackets, you still have to have the shims to adjust the toe, since his brackets only affect camber. My alignment guy, who is very TR versed, set the rear wheels with nearly 0 camber, which is a little positive than normal I believe.

Most of the time, with the stock suspension I wouldn't think that you need the brackets, as long as the rest of the suspension is in good shape. However, my TR6 is lowered an inch, so I would have a pronounced negative camber when sitting still, even more when accelerating.

 

[Guest]

Shannon, I think that a lot alignment problems are created or solved by who sets up the alignment. I, too, lowered my 73 with fast road springs and a tire that was 1/4 inch lower than previous. Bobby's Alignment Shop in New Iberia, Louisiana has this guy that is a wizard with shims. He flipped and slipped the shims around on my car to where I have the perfect setting (don't ask, I have no idea). (Yes, you can adjust the camber with the shims.) 40 bucks, front and rear.
Check out https://members.visi.net/~kohout/trailarm.html

Bill

 

[Mark_Gibson]

You are correct, shims only adjust for toe in or out. My car has been completely rebuilt with all new stock road springs, trailing arm bushings, etc and still I had the positive camber problem with the stock brackets. I had the frame measured while the body was off and all measurements were within the tolerances given in the Bentley manual, so the only thing I could think of to solve this was the adjustable bracket route. Either that or go thru the whole stock bracket switching around, trial and error method listed in one of Moss Motors articles. Too much work for me. You're right about the bolts being too short for many shims on the new brackets, so i used my old gade 8 bolts from the original brackets. They were about 1/4 inch longer.

Mark

 

[LastDeadLast]

Bill,

That website is basically saying what I was saying, you have to swap the different brackets to change the camber on the 6. Richard Good's brackets, while more expensive, eliminates this problem.

Either way, it's all good.