TR6 Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a TR6

[Guest]

I know before I start that this is going to be one of those questions that when I hear the answer I'm going to feel like an idiot, but hey, it won't be the first time.

I'm looking at replacing suspension components. I have parts on order, so I'm looking at the BL service manual to see what's involved.

Replacing the trailing arm bushes requires removing the trailing arm and refitting it. Fair enough - seems reasonably straightforward apart from the rust and seized bolts I'm going to encounter. The trouble is according to the book, you can't do the final tightening of the pivot bolts until the car is on the ground on its wheels. So how on earth do I get to the bolts?

Given that I don't have a lift, and I'm too cheap to pay someone else to do this, what's the best approach? I was thinking lowering it onto ramps after refitting the wheels might work - otherwise I'm stumped.

Anyone do this, have a neat solution and care to enlighten me?
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[LastDeadLast]

Alana,

I think the reason for this is because you want the bushing to "seize" the trailing arm bolt at the correct place. If this isn't done, the bushing would stretch, causing premature wear and possibly some annoying squeaking. I would assemble everything, without tightening the bolts, then install the wheels, and slide ramps under the rear wheels and lower the car on them, then tighten.

If I may be so bold as to recommend Nylatron bushings for the rear. I've ridden in TRs with rubber and poly bushings and I swear I can't tell the difference between the three except the the rubber bushed car was noticeably sloppier in the turns. Nylatron lasts longer than the poly mounts and they don't squeak. Just my .02.

 

[Guest]

I ordered nylatron all round, new springs, swaybars, the lot. I'll do it once and do it right.

It looks like ramps is the way to go then. Pity - I thought someone had a clever trick I hadn't thought of.

Thanks...

 

[LastDeadLast]

Well you could just jack up each arm individually until it just starts to lift the car, then tighten the bolts. I'd say that would get it pretty close.

Just curious, did you install zerk fittings in your trailing arms?

 

[Guest]

I haven't done anything yet - I'm waiting for the parts. I doubt I will start until it gets colder, since I'm sure that the job will take at least twice as long as I expect and I want to /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif the thing for as long as I can. I have about 500 miles on it since I bought it, and I'd like to get to 1000 before the weather gets too inclement. Realistically it's a race between the engine blowing up or winter arriving, but that's a seperate topic entirely.

I haven't even looked at the trailing arms on the car so I couldn't tell you what's on there now either. What's the advantage of zerks if I may ask? I thought nylatron was zero maint.

 

[piman]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

Hello Alana,

there is another option, but slightly long winded. you need to measure say the hub centre to wheel arch distance at normal rest position.

Disconnect the shock absorber and remove the road spring, jack up the arm to the same distance as you measuured then tighten the swinging arm bolts.
If you use a jack under the trailing arm as suggested you will find the the suspension will not compress as though it were resting on the wheels, and although close, I would not be happy with that.

Alec

 

[ROADSTR6]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

Have fun getting those bushings out of the control arms! I had to drill a series of holes in the bushing and use an air chisel to drive them out. What a pain! Good luck to you!

 

[Guest]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

I can't thank you enough for those kind words /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The bolts on the bloody brakes were bad enough. This is going to be a nightmare - I know it before I even start it.

Maybe I should get some air tools. Big ones. I'm loathe to actually pay someone to do the work - it seems like an admission of defeat somehow, but now I'm seriously thinking about it...

 

[ROADSTR6]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

Nah, don't pay for that work. I hate to pay for grunt labor. For experience or technical expertise, I'll pay. You can do it. It won't be pleasant, but you'll be glad you did it when it's finished.

 

[Guest]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

I'm actually finding the opposite.

That's the problem with the internet though. It's easy to find the answer to just about any question these days, no matter how obscure; but no-one has yet taught a computer to reliably swing a wrench or a hammer.

Arguably to operate a milling machine after it's been set up, but not a regular wrench...

And yes I do sit on my butt in an office all day.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/computer.gif

 

[Andy Blackley]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

Someday when I get to this job I will consider installing the Goodparts trailing arm kit and bushings, which looks fairly easy to deal with.
https://www.goodparts.com/parts_susp_steer.html
Anyone else try these?

 

[Guest]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

That's what I have on order. Front, back, springs and both swaybars. When I screw up the courage I'll let you know if no-one else gets back to you before.

 

[LastDeadLast]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

Andy,

I've got Richard Good's trailing arms. They're great. And more importantly, my alignment shop guy (a TR250 owner himself) think's they're great. This eliminates having to change the mounting brackets around in order to get the correct camber settings.

Alana,

I'd love to get some pics of the sway bars when you get them. That's probably going to be my next purchase from him. I, like you, have his springs, and bushing kit.

 

[Guest]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

Andy - actually I misread your post. I have the bushings on order not the brackets. I wasn't going to change the ride height so thought I wouldn't need them. Perhaps I'm wrong. If so someone tell me now so's I can order them BEFORE I replace everything else...

LastDeadLast - He's shipping the stuff next week. You want pics on or off the car? If off I'll do it when they come. If on then you'll have to wait until it gets colder (and I start the work). It's too nice right now to have it on stands.

 

[piman]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

Hello Alana,
I now have polyurethane bushes which are easy to install and remove. The rubber bushes are difficult to remove and install.
My preferred method of removal is a length of screwed rod, and a large sleeve that the bush can be pulled into and a blowtorch to heat and free the bushings. If you don't mind a few flames this is the easiest way to go unless you have a multi ton press, of course.

Alec

 

[arbs_53]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

Alana,
When I removed the rubber bushings from my trailing arms I used a short 3/4" pipe clamp and two sockets: one large enough for the bush to slide into, the other just small enough to fit into the eye of the trailing arm. One caveat, the sockets could shatter if they are defective or of a cheap quality, but I had no problem pushing mine out in this way.

 

[4aNot4]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

The rubber bushes are simple to remove and install if you follow the factory workshop manual procedure. Invest in a cheap press, less than $100, and you will be delighted at how those bushes come out in seconds.

 

[DougF]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

For installation, you can use a piece of threaded rod, two washers and two nuts to press them in. Very effective and inexpensive. The threaded rod needs to be about ten inches long (or long enough to hold the bushing, nuts and washers, and clear the trailing arm).

 

[Guest]

Re: Rear suspension [trailing arm] adjustment on a

It's odd this post came back to life. I did the rears with a hammer and a drill, and the fronts with a $40 press. The fronts were a LOT easier...