TR2/3/3A sticking clutch ??? TR3

[Kleykamp]

clutch plate sticking. freed by bumping starter in gear. drove car around neighborhood and experienced judder. I slipped clutch by starting out in fourth gear several times and the judder stopped and worked great. I put the car away and came back several hours later...clutch stuck again. Question is, how long would one mess around trying to "clean" clutch plate. 2) would you replace just the clutch plate or do the 3 in 1 kit. Money is an object as I just spent mega bucks to do front suspension. My labor is dirt cheap, but I'm not wild about pulling the trans more times than necessary. Right now I'm thinking pull and check parts, clean up pressure plate and fly wheel and replace only the driven plate if no other significant wear found. Thought?

 

[JerryVV]

Good Plan

 

[sundown]

Your sticking clutch has all the symptons of a faulty throw out bearing or a broken fork pin on the input shaft.

 

[Kleykamp]

Your sticking clutch has all the symptons of a faulty throw out bearing or a broken fork pin on the input shaft.

It is an intermitant problem. I think bearing or pin would be constant, and bearing would be making noise. I'm pretty certain contaminants on the clutch from 35 years of sitting are the culprit.

 

[Scot1966]

I had a similar experience with my 3 after pulling it out of storage for 15 yrs. I pulled the tranny and just cleaned everything. My clutch looked to have plenty of life left. I did replace the rubber line to the slave, as mine was releasing too slow from the internals of the line closing up. Has been good every year since.

 

[TR3driver]

I'd try taking it for several nice long drives first, in areas where you'll use the clutch a lot. Likely the heat, vibration and repeated use will clear up whatever is making it sticky.

If you do pull it apart, just clean, inspect and lubricate. I wouldn't replace anything unless it is worn or clearly a problem. If money is an object and something is worn, see if your local auto machine shop can refurbish them for you, rather than buying new. Last time I checked, a friction plate reline was about 1/4 the cost of a new plate.

I prefer to use "dry moly" as a lubricant, on both the splines and where the TOB carrier rides (on the gearbox front cover). It won't trap dirt and get gummy over time, as grease does.

https://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CRC-Dry-Moly-Lube-2F138