Shock Absorber Oil Level [was "Oh No!"]

[Wana]

Dutifully checking the fluid level in all of my shocks. The front two were fine, the left rear needed topping up. Then, horror struck! When I removed the filler bolt from the right rear, brown oil came flowing up out of the hole. I quickly put the screw back in and devised a plan. I got a 10 ft. length of plastic tubing just the right diameter to put in the filler hole, and sucked out the fluid. I don't know exactly what I was thinking, but it seemed like the right thing to do. So far, so good. Then, I tried to start injecting new shock fluid into the filler hole, but none would go in! It was like the shock was still full. What gives? Is this a sign that the shock is bad? HELP! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif

 

[Dave Russell]

Re: Oh No!

The rear shocks have a large plug near the bottom which holds the shock valves. There is a small filler hole high on the side with a hex plug. Which plug did you remove.

It's really better to remove the shock, drain it from the top hole, clamp it in a vise, & refill it while running the arm through the full range of travel. If the arms resistance to movement does not get really hard but smooth throughout it's travel in both directions, something is wrong.

Don't get the shock link upside down when installing. Make sure that the shock mount bolts to the frame are really tight.
D

 

[Wana]

Re: Oh No!

Dave, I removed the one on the top - the top of the shock is flat and has a hole right in the middle. Is this not the filler hole? Aaargh.

 

[Dave Russell]

Re: Oh No!

Yes - That is the filler. The BJ8 shock is a bit different layout than the earlier shocks. The shock will be difficult to fill because there is only the one hole. Fluid has to go in & air come out at the same time. Try running the fluid in through a smaller diameter tube which has air space around it so that the air can get out. A pump type oiler with a small nozzle should work.

It's still best to remove the shock & pump the lever to fill it. At least disconnect the shock link & move the lever with the shock in place. If the arm has really hard & uniform resistance throughout it's travel once it is filled, it is likely ok.
D

 

[Wana]

Re: Oh No!

The car is currently on jack stands awaiting the return of my wheels and brake drums from Hendrix (they'll be here in two days). The jack stands at the rear are under the axle. Would this be "loading" the suspension and forcing the fluid out of the shock? If I lift the right rear of the car by the frame instead of the axle, once I get the other three wheels back on, would this unload the shock and make it easier to get the fluid in? If I follow your suggestion of disconnecting the link, would the weight of the car need to be off of the suspension anyway? Maybe I need to take an auto mechanic class or two in my "spare time" so I don't create more problems for myself...

 

[Dave Russell]

Re: Oh No!

The position of the shock, loaded or unloaded, should not affect the oil volume very much. It's possible that the original fluid volume has increased due to temperature changes, air mixed in the fluid, or some unknown reason. The color of the fluid sounds as though it has some contamination. It should not matter to the shock if the weight is on or off the suspension except to make the link attachments more or less easy to access.

As mentioned, you really need to have the link disconnected to easily fill & evaluate shock action. Once the link is loose, it isn't "that" much harder to remove the shock to work on it.

The best "class" is to jump in & do it. No substitute for first hand experience.

There is quite a bit of difference between a seemingly good shock & a well rebuilt one. If in doubt, have Peter C. at World Wide Auto rebuild the shocks. It's a bit hard to judge. I had shocks that felt like they had a lot of resistance. The rebuilt shocks had at least twice the resistance & controlled the axle much better.
D

 

[Dave Richards]

Re: Oh No!

Dave R. Which fluid do you use in your shocks? Dave (dar100)

 

[Dave Russell]

Re: Oh No!

I used to use Harley Davidson Type E Hydraulic Fork Oil. Since peter C. rebuilt them, I haven't had to top up. When I once asked him what oil to use, he said if any leaks out to send them back to him, as they shouldn't need topping up.
D /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Dave Richards]

Re: Oh No!

Nice job, what's his contact info? BTW, my son lives near Boise, is that your area of ID?

 

[Dave Russell]

Re: Oh No!

He is on this forum occasionally. You can contact him here:
peter@nosimport.com
https://www.nosimport.com

BTW, yes I'm in Boise, 83705. Small world.
D

 

[Wana]

Re: Oh No!

Dave, thanks for the encouragement. I dove in... I've got the shock off the car. I ended up taking the whole link assembly off with the shock because the shock lever wouldn't come off the lower link bolt. Is the shock lever THREADED onto the link bolt?? If so, I don't see a way to "unscrew" it off the bolt. If not, should I just bang it off? Peter, if you're on chime in please! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

 

[Dave Russell]

Re: Oh No!

The link is a tapered nearly press fit in the shock arm. Remove the nut, support the arm in something solid, like a big vise, & whack the end of the bolt with a lead hammer. If it doesn't come loose, do you really have to take it off? If still determined, you could smack it a few more times or heat the shock arm. This will probably ruin the rubber in the link. A tie rod end puller might also work. I can usually get them out with a big hammer & a couple of hits. If your shocks are not "really" good, I think Peter will rebuild them for about $55 each, exchange. Better than a new shock at any price.
D

 

[Wana]

Re: Oh No!

Thanks, Dave. I'll try whacking them. I've ordered a couple of re-built's from Peter and will be sending him my old ones. I appreciate your help.