Painting inside a BE Boot

[Jim_Gruber]

Guys need some advice on re painting the inside of a BE's boot. I'm concerned about trying to paint back there and fumes from things like POR-15 in close quarters back there. I need some thoughts on how to do it without causing myself bodily injury to my breathing as well as just getting access back there. Thanks.

 

[paulsherman]

I did mine with POR-15, roller with long handle and a small fan. Worked OK

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Any other ideas guys. Thanks Paul.

 

[drooartz]

Any other ideas guys. Thanks Paul.

I'm hiring someone else to do mine. Does that help. :grin:

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Your budget is different than mine Drew.

 

[jjscott]

The way not to do it is the way I did it. So far I'm still alive and breathing, but tomorrow may be different.

My car was on a rotisserie. I crawled inside when it was upright and disc sanded/wire brushed the bottom. I wore my paint mask while doing this. The sides and top were in good shape. The top had only red/brown primer as a finish coat. Priming was done with spray can rustoleum. It's fairly easy to get to most areas when the car is flipped or rotated on the sides. Just stand on the floor and reach in, or crawl inside the flipped cockpit, crouch on the floor, reach in and do the boot top (inside). It's pretty much obligatory to crawl inside if you want to do the very back of the floor where that seam bends down and the fender wells. These I did first. I have a good mask, did sections at a time, and held my breath when I sprayed.

The paint was another matter. I used the same techniques but used my old Binks siphon gun. The whole inside was done in body color (enamel). Though I tried to spray in short bursts, holding my breath, the overspray and fumes were awful. Lacking any sense whatsoever, I kept at it and finished the job. It was truly awful. If you are using any solvent based paint, you really should have an air supply hood/mask. Be forewarned. Good luck, stay safe.

The AH Spares trunk kit is made with the proper materials (can't remember the name- the heavy leatherette material with jute back). Mine included the piece behind the seats, the fender well fronts, and the rear floor. Also came with grey cardboard pieces for the rear sides and naugahyde material (in my case red) to cover the rear of the fender wells. I couldn't figure any way to glue in the naugahyde on the rear fender wells, so I left those pieces off. The cardboard pieces (probably truckboard) required trimming in order to make them fit. The cut and sewn heavy stuff fit OK, but it takes some figuring to make the fender well fronts glue in around the exposed metal seams.

Jim

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Can you rent a fresh air pump/mask?

 

[drooartz]

Your budget is different than mine Drew.

My skill set and courage are too, and not in a good way. :grin:

I do like the idea of getting it on a rotisserie and having it on it's side. Seems then you could just poke an arm in and get to it. Spent some time in the boot of my Bugeye last week cleaning out the old carpet and I certainly wouldn't want to paint it like that.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Thanks for the feedback. I agree on the need for positive pressure mask not just a respirator in working with POR-15. It's smelly and I do want to be able to survive this journey. Roller with long handle will get most of it. Some parts will just require crawling back there. Any more cleanup / pre work ideas. Pretty clean overall but dusty back there. ShopVac first followed by wiping down with Marine CLean