Kevin, I don't believe most of the LED replacements that are out there work very well for the rear Bugeye brake and running light fixture. You see, the brakelight/running light fixture has the buib pointing down.
Using the original bulb, the lens was designed with microprisms that spread around the light from the two filaments (bright for brakelights and dim for running lights) so you could see it from any angle.
In addition there is a circular reflector in the top 2/3rd that reflects light back toward a car that is following you at night--in effect that car's headlamps are doing more of the work of making your car visible for anyone who is behind you than the running lights. This is usually forgotten when estimating how "bright" the fixture is.
LEDs don't work this way. Your eyes see spots of brightness because you are viewing the light that comes from each individual LED chip--you have to actually SEE them. The tower type LEDs (they look like pineapples) have have one third of the chips facing backward, so the light that comes from them is completely wasted. The LEDs in right angle type bulbs will be project backward at an slight upward angle and will not be very visible from the side. It is important that your rear lights be visible from any angle, including the sides.
This is why the solution from BMC has a few dozen LEDs in it, so you can "see" them.
Personally, I think the multiple, multiple LED solution looks really ugly, and I prefer the original filament type. Be aware that the original does not look as weak as it does in the photo. That is just bad photography, IMHO.
If you do replace the beehives (in the rear they are turnsignal lamps if properly wired, and front turnsignal/running lamps) with tower-type LEDs you will have the same effect, with many spots of brightness. Those might just look okay. You will deifnitely need an electronic flasher.
By the way, if you did not replace these original 1156 and 1157 filament type lamps when you did your restoration, do so. New ones will be brighter.
Charlie