Ignition Light

[QuickSilver]

My ignition light came on as I pulled in to work this morning.

I'm assuming that means that I'm not charging anymore?

Is there a true bolt on alternator that I can have from AutoZone?

I know about the Saturn but won't have the resource with me to effect the changes on the road. Was wondering of there is another alternative.

 

[JPSmit]

likely means you're not charging - check you fanbelt first

 

[Stewart]

If you get lucky and they have one a 79 ford fiesta autozone part number 13107 with the regulator is completely drop in. The only thing that might get you is the fan and pully from the old one may not fit.

Check the voltage of the battery if its topped off and you dont have to far to go you should have no problem getting back on just the battery alone.

 

[QuickSilver]

If you get lucky and they have one a 79 ford fiesta autozone part number 13107 with the regulator is completely drop in. The only thing that might get you is the fan and pully from the old one may not fit.

Check the voltage of the battery if its topped off and you don't have to far to go you should have no problem getting back on just the battery alone.

Thanks, it's those two humongous lekky cooling fans that concerns me.

I went ahead and ordered this on eBay this should finish of my modernization attempts - lol

Hope I don't fry the electrical system.

 

[QuickSilver]

likely means you're not charging - check you fanbelt first

I will do that after lunch. I also intend to go out to the parking garage with my BFH to affect a repair attempt, ie. give gentle prodding to the alternator to try to dislodge the brushes to move forward.

Wishful thinking. I foresee a ride home on the back of a AAA tow truck. Again.

 

[Stewart]

How far do you have to go? I've got stuck driving about 80 miles at night after an alternator conked out and made it back.

 

[tony barnhill]

If you get lucky and they have one a 79 ford fiesta autozone part number 13107 with the regulator is completely drop in. The only thing that might get you is the fan and pully from the old one may not fit.

Check the voltage of the battery if its topped off and you don't have to far to go you should have no problem getting back on just the battery alone.

Thanks, it's those two humongous lekky cooling fans that concerns me.

I went ahead and ordered this on eBay this should finish of my modernization attempts - lol

Hope I don't fry the electrical system.

If you did buy it, you're wasting your money & time - all you probably had was a 30+ year old alternator that finally died....no reason to "modernize - especially with that thing!! & those 2 fans: you want them to work properly.

It is always best, I've learned from experience, to make sure every piece of the system is working corectly & as designed before starting to 'modify' anything....&, I've also learned, it is best to keep everything as it was from the factory unless there's a recognizeable improvement (i.e., removing all the emissions on a late car improves power & gas mileage)....but, a 110 amp alternator?? You're creating DPO problems!

 

[QuickSilver]

If you get lucky and they have one a 79 ford fiesta autozone part number 13107 with the regulator is completely drop in. The only thing that might get you is the fan and pully from the old one may not fit.

Check the voltage of the battery if its topped off and you don't have to far to go you should have no problem getting back on just the battery alone.

Thanks, it's those two humongous lekky cooling fans that concerns me.

I went ahead and ordered this on eBay this should finish of my modernization attempts - lol

Hope I don't fry the electrical system.

If you did buy it, you're wasting your money & time - all you probably had was a 30+ year old alternator that finally died....no reason to "modernize - especially with that thing!! & those 2 fans: you want them to work properly.

It is always best, I've learned from experience, to make sure every piece of the system is working corectly & as designed before starting to 'modify' anything....&, I've also learned, it is best to keep everything as it was from the factory unless there's a recognizeable improvement (i.e., removing all the emissions on a late car improves power & gas mileage)....but, a 110 amp alternator?? You're creating DPO problems!

It's always hard to respond to posts such as this that presents a quagmire. I respect your tremendous amount of MG knowledge and I appreciate the time you took to respond.

However I disagree with certain elements of your post.

I always improve on all my British cars I've owned by modernizing the systems as they fail from age. For example, when the starter finally fails I'll use the opportunity to go to the new modern high torque ones.

The money I spent today was well spent and will go towards making a reliable transportation vehicle for me to enjoy.

I'll never pass off any of my cars as a concourse specimen rather automotive expressions of myself. It's a hobby for me not a living.

Thanks for your time, I know you meant well.

 

[QuickSilver]

How far do you have to go? I've got stuck driving about 80 miles at night after an alternator conked out and made it back.

I went out to the parking lot and noticed that my lower bracket bolt was missing. So I went to AutoZone and fashioned some shade tree system together. Sadly a loose belt wasn't the culprit but that might have solved my higher than what I perceive as normal running temperature.

I have a 40 mile commute to get back home so hopefully I will make it. It will just be the lekky fans, rear stop lights that will be drawing a current.

Thanks Sirs.

 

[tony barnhill]

If you get lucky and they have one a 79 ford fiesta autozone part number 13107 with the regulator is completely drop in. The only thing that might get you is the fan and pully from the old one may not fit.

Check the voltage of the battery if its topped off and you don't have to far to go you should have no problem getting back on just the battery alone.

Thanks, it's those two humongous lekky cooling fans that concerns me.

I went ahead and ordered this on eBay this should finish of my modernization attempts - lol

Hope I don't fry the electrical system.

If you did buy it, you're wasting your money & time - all you probably had was a 30+ year old alternator that finally died....no reason to "modernize - especially with that thing!! & those 2 fans: you want them to work properly.

It is always best, I've learned from experience, to make sure every piece of the system is working corectly & as designed before starting to 'modify' anything....&, I've also learned, it is best to keep everything as it was from the factory unless there's a recognizeable improvement (i.e., removing all the emissions on a late car improves power & gas mileage)....but, a 110 amp alternator?? You're creating DPO problems!

It's always hard to respond to posts such as this that presents a quagmire. I respect your tremendous amount of MG knowledge and I appreciate the time you took to respond.

However I disagree with certain elements of your post.

I always improve on all my British cars I've owned by modernizing the systems as they fail from age. For example, when the starter finally fails I'll use the opportunity to go to the new modern high torque ones.

The money I spent today was well spent and will go towards making a reliable transportation vehicle for me to enjoy.

I'll never pass off any of my cars as a concourse specimen rather automotive expressions of myself. It's a hobby for me not a living.

Thanks for your time, I know you meant well.

I also agree - I use the high torque starters myself...my point being I don't use a modern piece on an old system without redoing the entire system so it is capable of handling the modern piece...110 amp is a bit overkill, IMO, & will cause other problems down the road in the old electrical system that will be hard to point back to the upgrade...were I planning such a swap, I'd redo that old, brittle wiring harness & look at everything down the line to see how that one change would affect the entire thing....but, just my opinion.

I think we're probably saying the same thing different ways....I just like to point out the possibilities of making changes without understanding fully the possibilities or problems that could occur (but, sounds like you're aware & ready for any of them).....oh, be prepared for your tach to start "messing up".

 

[QuickSilver]

No worries, the original question was what the ignition light on meant in this new to me MG.

When the stock tachometer fails, I'll go to an Autometer unit, which is what I really want but can't justify them since the stock unit still works. Advance wiring has modern wiring for when the stock wires take a dive, either naturally or due to my upgrades.

Thanks once again.

PS: I made it home with no issues, the ignition light flickers, dims and goes out sporadically during the drive which was reassuring as it meant I was getting somewhat of a charge.

 

[tony barnhill]

Means all you've probably got is a loose or old belt!

 

[QuickSilver]

Means all you've probably got is a loose or old belt!

Nope, what I have is a bad alternator and/or internal regulator.

 

[tony barnhill]

Okay....

 

[DrEntropy]

Getting home WITH your shield is always a good thing!

I also intend to go out to the parking garage <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">with my BFH</span></span> to affect a repair attempt, ie. give gentle prodding to the alternator to try to dislodge the brushes to move forward.

There's th' prob! Shoulda used a proper cricket bat! It wouldn't dare just flicker. Woulda gone out straight away.

 

[Monark192]

I also intend to go out to the parking garage <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">with my BFH</span></span> to affect a repair attempt, ie. give gentle prodding to the alternator to try to dislodge the brushes to move forward.

There's th' prob! Shoulda used a proper cricket bat! It wouldn't dare just flicker. Woulda gone out straight away.

Not really enough room to stand in the engine bay and get a proper swing though old chap

 

[QuickSilver]

I daresay that the cricket bat in the engine bay would have presented a bit of a sticky wicket - lol.

 

[rick_ingram]

My ignition light came on as I pulled in to work this morning.

Did it just pop-on bright....or did it slowly go from a dim red that would go out with an increase in rpm...eventually turned bright red no matter what rpm?

If it popped on to bright red....it could be as simple as the internal surge protector gone bad. If this is the case, you can remove the surge protector and run without. (Twist fixed my alternator in the parking lot of a British pub in 1993 by doing this....I ran without the surge protector for years.)

If it was the latter, it's most likely the diode pack gone south.

This is assuming that your alternator is a stock 16acr model.

 

[QuickSilver]

My ignition light came on as I pulled in to work this morning.

Did it just pop-on bright....or did it slowly go from a dim red that would go out with an increase in rpm...eventually turned bright red no matter what rpm?

If it popped on to bright red....it could be as simple as the internal surge protector gone bad. If this is the case, you can remove the surge protector and run without. (Twist fixed my alternator in the parking lot of a British pub in 1993 by doing this....I ran without the surge protector for years.)

If it was the latter, it's most likely the diode pack gone south.

This is assuming that your alternator is a stock 16acr model.

Hi Rick:

It looks to be a stock unit.

I did not notice a dim performance but then I was driving in bright sun without a top, it was when I entered a covered parking garage that I noticed it. As a matter of fact I drove it the night before and I did not notice any dim light.

Once the replacement arrives I will extract the offending unit and perform a post mortem to find root cause.

 

[QuickSilver]

I installed the new unit today.

Two things I noticed:

First, the car performs "better", would an alternator make a car performer better? My hesitation/stumble during transition seems to be gone.

Second, the lekky cooling fans are running for shorter periods and car is definitely running cooler as indicated by the gauges.

I will take the old unit to AutoZone for them to test it.