TR6 how to go about floor sill replacement? TR6

[crj7driver]

I am going to replace the floors, inner and outer sills on my 6. I have read how to restore a Tr6 and the method on how to go about this if you have the front and rear sections cut in half. Now I know that the book recommends to not pull the body from the frame prior to panel replacement but I was suspect of the frame and did not want to align the panels with a sagging frame. So the frame is fully restored and solid.

The floors are in pretty good shape, a little thin in places but not rusted bad at all, with the exception of the outer lip of the floor near the sills. In this area it is almost non-existent. The outer sill/rocker panels are newer fiberglass ones that the DPO installed.

I have all new metal for the affected areas and want to replace it all and not to do any half and half patches. But since the floors are pretty solid and the fiberglass rockers are good, what would be the most sane way of replacing the panels. Floors first, then rockers, other way around maybe.

I welded in braces all over the body prior to removing it from the frame at the top and bottom of the door opening along with an X brace in the cabin as well, so I don't think it has moved much if at all.

Thanks for any help.

 

[TR6oldtimer]

My first question is how bad are those inner sills? Are they just rusted on the bottom where they attach to the floor, or are they cancer ridden? The reason I ask is the inner and outer sills work together to support the forward part of the body. Replacing either one causes the body to flex even with bracing.

So if the inner sill is only rusted along the bottom, I suggest you just cut off the rusted part and using the replacement panel, cut a piece to fit and weld it in. Now I know you said you wanted not to do this, but trust me, if it does not require total replacement you will have fewer challenges in the project.

To replace the entire inner sill, the rocker and inner sill will need to be removed, leaving the A post with no vertical or horizontal support even with of bracing things will move.

Regardless of the repair, the first thing you need to do is place the body, properly shimmed, back on the frame (preferably with the engine and transmission installed). Attach the fenders and doors to insure proper alignment. Shim the body as necessary and take lots of pictures, measurements, and notes. I would even place the hood on to make sure it is still in proper alignment. Once this has been done to your liking you are ready to proceed.

If you are still determined to replace the inner sill, then with the body still bolted to the frame, I would start with the outer rocker. The intent here is to get that panel to fit properly while least disturbing other reference points. If your replacement rocker is as bad as mine, you will be spending a lot of dolly and hammer time to get it to fit and look right. During this process you will be taking it off and on a lot and refitting the fenders to check for alignment. (Leave the doors on.) A hint: The front portion of the inner and outer sills were originally welded behind the foot kick panel. In that my inner sills were OK, I opted to not follow this method. Instead, I stitched welded the forward part of the rocker to the outer side of the kick panel. A small vertical cut in the upper tab of the rocker just before the A post facilitated the fitting. Even if you are not going to weld it on the outside, I would still make the small cut to help in fitting.

Once you are happy with the rocker's alignment to the body and it's looks, set it aside.

At this point, replace the inner sill. Not having done this, I can give no first hand experience, other then to go slow. But, you have an edge, and that is the rocker panel you just finished fitting. Use it and the inner sill, clamped or tack welded in place, to once again do the door and fender alignment checks. When everything looks good, I would weld the inner sill to the body, and the outer sill, along the top of the inner sill and to the B post, the A post, and kick panel. Leave the cookie cutter ends off until the floor is replaced.

Now you can replace the floor. I lifted the body off the frame, cut out the old floor and dressed everything up for welding in the new panel. (If your inner sill only has rust along the bottom, this is the time to repair it) Placing the new floor, with shims underneath, the body was once again fitted to the floor and bolted to the frame. And yes, doors and fenders fitted to check for body alignment ON BOTH SIDES. I then stitch welded it in all along the perimeter. The end caps can be fitted and the rocker plug welded to the bottom of the floor panel. Before the end plugs were permanently fastened, I applied more paint to the inside of the rocker cavity. Finally, you can weld in the end plugs, or as I did, epoxy them in.

How did I do with this repair. Screwed up one floor and one rocker panel before I got it right. Just a note on my rocker panels. A body guy, a real metal bumper wanted $750 to sharpen and fit my two rocker panels. I figured I could destroy a lot of panels learning how to do this, and I had a lot of time. I am happy with what I have done.

Just my thoughts, I hope this helps, good luck.

 

[crj7driver]

Thank you very much, I think only the forward upper part of the inner sill is shot. The 90 degree band of the floors is definetly shot, but it makes sense what you are saying. I am going to start cleaning the metal and see how far the tin worm has gone.

Thanks

 

[mgNOT]

I have read articles on sill and floor replacement, but now that the real thing is in my future, the question is: can the floor be replaced with the body on the frame and the original inner and outer sills in place?
Thanks,
Dennis

 

[crj7driver]

I have read articles on sill and floor replacement, but now that the real thing is in my future, the question is: can the floor be replaced with the body on the frame and the original inner and outer sills in place?
Thanks,
Dennis

Yes they can, search for posts by TR6BIll, he recently did this, it was not an easy job for him (or for anybody) as he was trying to leave the exterior paint pristine. Search for his posts or he may chime in here.

 

[DougF]

To replace the floors with the body in place, I would get measurements for new panel positioning. Using an angle grinder with a wire cup brush, clean the edges of the old floor so to find all of the spot welds. Drill out your spot welds(spot weld bits are very good to use) and lift the panel out. You may need to cut it into sections to remove. Blind holes caused from drilling spot welds can be welded shut. Other holes that are accessible with a welder when the panel is in position can be utilized as welding points.
I drill holes into the new panels for welding to simulate spot welds.
I wouldn't bead weld the panel into position.

 

[Guest]

The spot welds on the floor are where the top flange of the rockers overlap the floors, and the floors in turn take a 90* turn down to become a part of the rockers themselves, in fact the inner panel of the rocker. So, cutting out the out row of spot welds will not fix anything. Assuming that you want to only replace the floorpans, I would cut the old floor out, leaving the spot welded section in place (assuming it is not rotten) and simply overlap the new pan over the spot welds. I bead welded this down and semi-ground the welds flat. If you want a concours-looking job, perhaps you could butt the newly trimmed floorpans to the wall of the rockers and faux-spotweld them in. I used brush on seam sealer to hide my welds. Definitely not concours, but strong a heck.

 

[DougF]

That is why a spot weld bit is good in this situation. With practice and patience, you can cut one layer of metal.

 

[mgNOT]

Many thanks to all of you for your replies. I have some areas behind the driver seat where I presume the water on the carpet caused rust which was subsequently brazed over with patches and then a coat of some type of paint put over everything. I could cut the old floor to pieces to remove it but can't imagine how the new floor would be manuvered into place. I'm thinking that cutting around the existing floor and lapping the new one onto the old perimeter would be easiest. Too bad I thought "just a little bubbling on the rear deck" ha! Now it's inner fenders and B post and I'll bet the area of the sill behind the front wheels is an issue too.
-Dennis

 

[TR6oldtimer]

You are correct, there is no way to install a complete floor without lifting the body as the body sits on the floor, and the large lip on the new floor panel is actually (as TRBill noted) the rear of the rocker.

Your best choice is as you described, cut out the old, leaving a lip then stitch weld in the new. If you want a smoother finish, and you have enough of the old floor to work with, you could flange the old floor lip just enough to set the repair panel in.

Good luck

 

[mgNOT]

Many thanks again, the partial replacement is the avenue I will follow unless I find significant issues as yet undiscovered. Now all I need are: a brake, flanger, cart and C25 for the new welder, time, money and.....
Thanks,
Dennis