How fast can you pull your Midget engine / trans??

[NardisCNC]

I know there are a lot of variables on this one..... experience, tools at hand, condition of bolts, etc. but I'm getting ready to do my first and was just curious about some typical times (or record times) on this procedure.

Also, since this will be my 1st engine / trans pull (66 midget) are there any pointers or words of wisdom I should be aware of? Thanks in advance!!

 

[DrEntropy]

heh. Record for me with an MGB is just under 45 minutes. Midgets actually take a bit longer. Likely it'll take a couple hours on first try. The only "warnings" are: be SURE you've disconnected the wires and lines, cables, etc. When it's dangling half way out you don't want to hear things goin' *PLINGGG!!!* as ya wrestle it.

I usually try to do it a "system" at a time. Wiring, coolant, hydraulics, cables/controls. Then the physical mounting points 'n driveline.

 

[Hap Waldrop]

On the race cars we did engine and tranny changes at the race track in well under a hour, at home in the garage at a liesurely pace, maybe 2-3 hours. FOr the first time, take your time, take photos, so you rmember what goes where and how. The best pointer I can give, is take stuff off, I see professional techs all the time trying to leave stuff, on like the carbs and ex. manifold (on MGBs) and leave the readiator in, take the radiator out, take the carbs, exhaust, I like to take the distributor off too, and pul the engine and tranny as a unit, not separate. Hope this helps.

 

[CraigCootsona]

I agree, photos with a digital camera can help a lot. For the first time, checklist could be handy (helps to have an assistant) to make sure you don't forget something during reassembly. You can announce what you are removing as you disconnect it and they write it down. Short of that, I've been known to use a little masking tape with labels or letters matching the corresponding connectors, especially if lots of wires are involved. It takes the guesswork out of trying to read the color codes.

Also, a clean workspace to lay out parts in an organized way can do a lot for reducing frustration. I always find that I'm much more relaxed in a clean shop with plenty of work bench space to lay everything out. Sometimes I even jack the car up and put stands under it so I don't have to bend down so far, although in an engine removal it might put you out of reach from the floor jack.

It also helps to have empty containers and rags standing by for disconnecting and storing fluids. Glass jars work well for the gas line so it doesn't leak all over your engine bay. Beware the carb float bowls could be full and could leak when removed too.

I would recommend using lots of padded blankets/towels around the engine bay and surrounding bodywork in case something rotates during the lifting process. This is especially true on and MGA! Depending on your equipment, removing the bonnet might help too. If you do remove it, leave some "witness" marks on the hinge where it meets the bonnet that will help with realignment later.

I think I've done mine in 1-2 hours in the bugeye at a normal pace. If I hurry I end up finding the tensile strength of very important wires and cables! I think overall you'll be fine if you take your time. The process is pretty intuitive.

Good luck!

 

[startech47]

Never pull the engine by holding the bottom of the crankshaft pulley. It is too easy to crush your hand on the steering rack.

 

[Gray_Cat]

In addition to draining the engine oil be sure to drain the gear box oil or you will have BIG mess on your hands. You should be able to complete the removal in 2 to 3 hours at a leisurely pace - no point in trying to set a record the first time out!
Roy

 

[2091351]

By Yourself?

Steve

 

[zimmy]

i used a "larger" lift last time and had to jack the car up so the lift legs would go under the wheels as i couldnt get the lift close enough to pull the motor..z

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I think there is a check list in the wiki?

 

[jlaird]

5 hours out and in and on the road. By myself. Now then I have had lots of practice.

 

[scubabatdan]

Disconnect everything, then double check everything!
Use a tilt lift sling and go slow.

My firt time was 4 hours, second time 3 hours, 3rd time 2 hour 45 min.

It gets faster as you get used to it.
Dan

 

[JamesWilson]

My first time was 4 hours, second time 3 hours, 3rd time 2 hour 45 min.

It gets faster as you get used to it.

A Learning curve.

Looks like a 75% curve(1st = 4hrs; 2nd = 4 * .75 = 3hrs; 4th = 4 * .75^2 = 2 hr 15 min... I reckon that by the time you pull the 16th engine it'll be down to less than an hour )

 

[Hedgehog]

With experience you should be able to get it down to 1 hr. I also agree with Hap, remove stuff before you pull it. I keep a 5 drawer Craftsman roll around cabinet that I put all the parts into as I take them off the car. It keeps all parts together and organized. When the drawers are empty, the car is back together. Also, use plastic bags for the parts and label them with a Sharpie.

 

[Steve P.]

The last time I pulled the engine/trans from my
Bugeye, it took about 1.5 hours. The bonnet was
off, all tools were handy, and I didn't have any
"help". It had been in and out a few times (sadly),
so no stuck bolts/nuts.

Practice makes the job go faster.

 

[terriphill]

I agree 100% with using the digital camera! It may slow your actual progress a little, but it will provide you with a wonderful resource for the re-install!
We pulled our midget 5 times before we got it right and posting pictures on the forum for these guys to see what we were doing wrong was invaluable.
I have a file for EVERY engine we have pulled (including the ones that were bought as spare parts for other projects)
One thing I have learned is that very few of these cars have been left un-molested and having pictures can really make the difference when you are asking for help.

 

[SilentUnicorn]

Not fast enough- i would like to be able to levitate it out and then back in........


m

 

[jlaird]

I prefer to put the extra parts on the work shop and throw the nuts and bolts in a bucket.

Any left over on assembley go into stock. LOL.

 

[JamesWilson]

I prefer to put the extra parts on the work shop and throw the nuts and bolts in a bucket.

Any left over on assembley go into stock. LOL.

I blame the shop germlims that bring in extra ones that other people have "lost" and leave them to incite my paranoia....