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Hi guys - will get some pictures up soon but in spirit of passing along unsolicited but potentially helpful/interesting tidbits I thought I'd post the following.
These are based on my '74 TR6 with a stock motor, but pretty much everything else has been rebuilt or tweaked as far as running gear and suspension.
When I say fast road, I mean <span style="text-decoration: underline">fast</span> road. We were careful, but I'm talking really motoring here. We had some closed road sections were we got into four wheel drifts.
1) Negative chamber on the rear wheels is your friend, and too much is about right
I found Richard Goods adjustable camber kit to be really helpful here, getting the camber right really allows the car to take a set, generate good lateral forces and take a very controllable set
2) The Toyota from brake conversion is really nice when you are really motoring
I drove my car back-to-back with a stock caliper TR6 and the Toyota brakes make an important difference
3) The uprated rear brake cylinders work nicely with the Toyota calipers
I didn't have any brake balance issues and the brakes pull up in a balanced way. Never encountered any fade either, but then again I was trying to carry a lot of momentum through the turns.
4) Poly bushings are the only way to fly - enough said
5) Having an overdrive and switch at finger reach from the wheel is AWESOME.
The ability to pop in/out of overdrive when moving is great, crazy helpful actually. Wonder why it the rest of the industry 40 years to introduce shift paddles on the steering wheel.
6) Lowering the front suspension makes a big different on how she turns in
But don't go crazy, mine is too low and I get tire rub on the driver side fender when I load her up in a turn and then further compress the suspension via a bump. if you like smelling burning tire from time to time then by all means, but be aware you'll burn the paint off the outer fender lip. I'm just saying... :laugh:
7) Richard Goods springs are still for daily driving, but work great when really moving along
I wouldn't do this if you just casually or are more cruising oriented (which is all good stuff mind you), but if you like to push these indispensable in my opinion.
8) If you haven't sent your distributor to Jeff at Advanced you really should consider it
9) If you have limited funds the age old advice to focus on the suspension and brakes rather than hopping-up the engine is excellent advice.
I was able to run with cars with much more motor / were much lighter by carrying lots of momentum through the turns.My engine is stock, healthy but has lots of miles on her. Using momentum and then tapping into her torque works really well.
Anyway, I made a leap of faith when I went this way with my TR6 build and fortunatley the coaching that a lot of you provided all came together. So thanks, and I hope this helps someone else who is thinking about how to build up their car.
These are based on my '74 TR6 with a stock motor, but pretty much everything else has been rebuilt or tweaked as far as running gear and suspension.
When I say fast road, I mean <span style="text-decoration: underline">fast</span> road. We were careful, but I'm talking really motoring here. We had some closed road sections were we got into four wheel drifts.
1) Negative chamber on the rear wheels is your friend, and too much is about right
I found Richard Goods adjustable camber kit to be really helpful here, getting the camber right really allows the car to take a set, generate good lateral forces and take a very controllable set
2) The Toyota from brake conversion is really nice when you are really motoring
I drove my car back-to-back with a stock caliper TR6 and the Toyota brakes make an important difference
3) The uprated rear brake cylinders work nicely with the Toyota calipers
I didn't have any brake balance issues and the brakes pull up in a balanced way. Never encountered any fade either, but then again I was trying to carry a lot of momentum through the turns.
4) Poly bushings are the only way to fly - enough said
5) Having an overdrive and switch at finger reach from the wheel is AWESOME.
The ability to pop in/out of overdrive when moving is great, crazy helpful actually. Wonder why it the rest of the industry 40 years to introduce shift paddles on the steering wheel.
6) Lowering the front suspension makes a big different on how she turns in
But don't go crazy, mine is too low and I get tire rub on the driver side fender when I load her up in a turn and then further compress the suspension via a bump. if you like smelling burning tire from time to time then by all means, but be aware you'll burn the paint off the outer fender lip. I'm just saying... :laugh:
7) Richard Goods springs are still for daily driving, but work great when really moving along
I wouldn't do this if you just casually or are more cruising oriented (which is all good stuff mind you), but if you like to push these indispensable in my opinion.
8) If you haven't sent your distributor to Jeff at Advanced you really should consider it
9) If you have limited funds the age old advice to focus on the suspension and brakes rather than hopping-up the engine is excellent advice.
I was able to run with cars with much more motor / were much lighter by carrying lots of momentum through the turns.My engine is stock, healthy but has lots of miles on her. Using momentum and then tapping into her torque works really well.
Anyway, I made a leap of faith when I went this way with my TR6 build and fortunatley the coaching that a lot of you provided all came together. So thanks, and I hope this helps someone else who is thinking about how to build up their car.
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