how do you secure the transmission tunnel down ?

[chicken]

How is the transmision tunnel held down on a BJ7, is it just with self tappers (surely then this can lead to water ingress ?)

 

[AUSMHLY]

There should be be lip on the bottom of the tunnel. 4 holes on each side of the lip. Screws are used to screw into the floor pan. As long as the screws are tight, no water should get up though the screws.

I used a thin foam seal, like the ones used to mount camper shells on truck beds, along the bottom rails, the front edge and the rear of the transmission tunnel. You should be able to find the seal at your local hardware store. Comes in a roll.

Cheers,
Roger

 

[anthony7777]

ausmhly. interesting! mine also has eight holes as have all the other healys ive owned, the book says "6 self tapping screws", i also make a thin foam rubber gasket to aid in keeping out h2-o.

 

[John_Progess]

I believe that the question was asked some time back if anyone had tried to epoxy/jbweld/anything else to attach studs to the floor to prevent holes through the floor. As I remember there was no response. I wondered about using the new glue for metal to metal that GM uses to glue the hinges to the body of their cars. Still checking on this. Have a good day!

John

 

[anthony7777]

john, you want to glue the tunnel down????

 

[Randy Forbes]

john, you want to glue the tunnel down????

Bad idea; guarantee that the overdrive will fail within a week... :wink:

If you're looking for something more secure than sheetmetal screws, use "nutserts" in the frame rail and them 10-32 (threaded) machine screws to secure the tunnel. See: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=655

Also, be certain to use closed cell foam rubber for your seal, or you'll be inviting the tinworm; the open cell weatherstipping will retain water (our wives can explain that one...).

 

[GregW]

I believe that the question was asked some time back if anyone had tried to epoxy/jbweld/anything else to <span style="font-weight: bold">attach studs to the floor to prevent holes through the floor</span>. As I remember there was no response. I wondered about using the new glue for metal to metal that GM uses to glue the hinges to the body of their cars. Still checking on this. Have a good day!

John

Doesn't sound to me like John was suggesting glueing the tunnel to the body. More like glueing the heads of screws with the thread sticking up. Then mount the tunnel over the threads and put nuts on to secure it.

I would probably stick with the original way with self tappers and seal the exposed threads from underneath. If you glued the screws on, you'd want a metal-to-metal contact, which means the paint would need to be stripped from the body. Exposing more metal to rust, unless you re-paint afterwards. Then you need to match paint.

 

[Keoke]

Problem here Greg is the self tappers have tapped themselves out. Randy's suggestion will work or use the next size larger self tapper.--Keoke

 

[chicken]

Roger

Thanks for that, i guessed it was just self tappers but just seems a bit harsh to go drilling into my new floors that i spent hours fitting, i guess in hindsight i could have tack welded some studs from underneath prior to painting.
I see you have lined the inside of your tunnel cover, is this for heat or noise ? is it worth doing ?

Rob

 

[Randy Forbes]

Roger

Thanks for that, i guessed it was just self tappers but just seems a bit harsh to go drilling into my new floors that i spent hours fitting, i guess in hindsight i could have tack welded some studs from underneath prior to painting.
<span style="font-weight: bold">I see you have lined the inside of your tunnel cover, is this for heat or noise ? is it worth doing ?</span>

Rob

Clearly, you have not logged many miles in a Healey. I once had a passenger about succumb to heat prostration after an hours drive from Lafayette to Lake Charles, Louisiana.

They do get hot, especially the footwells and tunnel area.

 

[Keoke]

Randy, he is in the UK and with limited exceptions it is cooler and wetter over there.---Keoke-- :laugh:

 

[BUNDYRUM]

What! you only have 6 or 8 holes in each side of the cover, clearly you weren't counting well enough.

I'm with you Randy, I also used 10/32 "nutserts" but then used csk screws with csk washers under them.

Regular 10/32 screws would have worked just as well.

I also used 2 layers of 1/8" thick foam all the way around and anywhere else I could see that the heat would get through.

I lined the inside with some insulation used on heating ducts (not the quack quack type). Yes it keeps the heat and some of the noise out as well.

The problem I can see with tack welding studs to the floor is you will end up with a hole in one knee cap/elbow/arm/shoulder at some point as it's just waiting to happen.

regards,

bundyrum.

 

[TodE]

Randy,

What did you use underneath? Does it get greasy and dirty? Have you had to replace it? Do you also use Dynamat or something on top??

Thank you,

Tod

 

[Randy Forbes]

Randy,

What did you use underneath? Does it get greasy and dirty? Have you had to replace it? Do you also use Dynamat or something on top??

Thank you,

Tod

I'll let Roger answer that one, as mine is still bare steel (well, painted bare steel). I do have some insulation that I plan to put under the carpets, but it hasn't been done yet...

Keoke: okay, in the UK, it will turn to steam :wink:

 

[chicken]

Should the uderlay from the carpet go under the tunnel first before screwing down or do you just use a thick foam and then butt the underlay upto the tunnel when fixed ??

Rob

 

[AUSMHLY]

Roger
I see you have lined the inside of your tunnel cover, is this for heat or noise ? is it worth doing ?
Rob

Hi Rob,

Is it worth doing? Absolutely! For heat.

Reducing the heat in our Healey's is like a chain. Find all the links and make sure they don't let the heat in, or reduce the amount of heat as much as possible. From holes in the firewall, under our drivers seat from the muffler, from the headers in the footwell and from the transmission. All these areas should be plugged, sealed or some sort of heat shield applied or improved.

The transmission tunnel.
Most importantly it has to be sealed. We've touched on that in this post already. Seal the bottom lip, the front and the rear. Keep that heat from entering the cockpit. Check the rubber shift boot. Don't think much heat comes in from there? Remove it and you'll have a hand warmer on a cold day, or a hot day.

The idea of putting a head shield on the bottom of the transmission tunnel is to reflect the heat. Keep the tunnel cool. What I used, others use other products, was a adhesive backed, thin aluminized heat barrier. The product is by Pegasus. Here's a link:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1828

What ever product you use on the bottom of the tunnel, make sure the heat there will not melt the adhesive or any of the product is made of. Example would be Dynamat. The black material will melt. And you don't want that dripping onto the drive shaft or anything actually. Don't use that type of product.

On the top of the tunnel, I use another heat reducing product that also acts as a sound damping product. It is a type of closed cell product that also has a heat reflective product on both sides. I mention closed cell, because I choose products that don't absorb water. Oh, like water ever gets in our Healeys, right? The product goes under the name of Low-E. You can do a search on the www.

Photo 1. Pegasus product
Photo 2. Pegasus on bottom of the transmission tunnel
Photo 3. Low-E on the top of the transmission tunnel

As always, clean the surfaces well, before adhering any product. And look both ways before crossing the street and wash your hands before dinner.

Drive it like you stole it!
Roger

 

[AUSMHLY]

Should the uderlay from the carpet go under the tunnel first before screwing down or do you just use a thick foam and then butt the underlay upto the tunnel when fixed ??

Rob

Hey Rob,

1. Transmission tunnel lip which has the seal glued on the lip, meets the metal floor. (Unless you have installed tar paper or some other sealing product like Dynamat on the metal floor).

2. If you have installed any jute or other product, it has been cut away so the tunnel seal meets the floor.

3. The jute butts up against the edge of the transmission tunnel lip.

4. Floor carpet lays on top of the transmission's carpet.

Roger

 

[chicken]

Roger

As allways very helpfull, i have installed a similiar product to dynamat on my floors and bulkhead but nothing as yet on the tunnel, will have to do so.
Have now cut back the jute to the edges and stuck a piece of closed cell foam to the bottom lip ready for screwing down.

Everyday we get closer, it's just finding that day.

Rob

 

[Randy Forbes]

Roger

As allways very helpfull, i have installed a similiar product to dynamat on my floors and bulkhead but nothing as yet on the tunnel, will have to do so.
Have now cut back the jute to the edges and stuck a piece of closed cell foam to the bottom lip ready for screwing down.

<span style="font-weight: bold">Everyday we get closer, it's just finding that day.</span>

Rob

Yep, I like the way you think!

It was a twenty-two (22) years between these two (2) pictures (and I still don't have an interior yet):

 

[Johnny]

All listed are good ideas, but consider this;
If you insert studs from the bottom up, they most likely would interfere with the carpeting on top.

If you use thread inserts you most likely would be able to tighten down so tight you'll damage the fiberglass rail.

My suggestion is to use self tappers, go up a size if you have to, also use washers like on the timing chain cover, and don't tighten too tight! When fitted properly the railing (on the tunnel) sits pretty tight by itself.

Just my opinion.