Glazing Door Window Glass in BJ8

[Patrick67BJ8]

I have to replace the glazing material that holds the Door glass tight in the channel. I have purchased the glazing material and would like to know the best way to do do this. I only need to do the vertical channel and not the bottom channel. I have removed the glass and removed the vertical channel and cleaned it up so it’s ready to go.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

The way I've always done it is to fold the glazing rubber over the edge of the glass and press the channel down on it. Then, trim the rubber with a 'bevel'--angled away from the channel--with a razor blade, being careful not to score the glass.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

The way I've always done it is to fold the glazing rubber over the edge of the glass and press the channel down on it. Then, trim the rubber with a 'bevel'--angled away from the channel--with a razor blade, being careful not to score the glass.

Did you put anything on the glazing rubber to help it slide into the channel?

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Don't recall, for sure, but I've been known to use silicone lubricant in these circumstances, if necessary. Petroleum lubricants are a no-no.

 

[BigGreen]

Soft soap is also a no-go
I use Poorboysworld NaturalLook on rubber
It softens and brings old hardend rubber back to "new"

 

[AUSMHLY]

If you have difficulties pressing the glass into the channel with the glazing strip wrapped around the glass edge, it may be because the rubber is too thick or stiff. Example, replacing the rubber seal on the bottom of my windscreen, I found the rubber too stiff and it didn't seem to fit the channel very well. I purchased the same item from another vendor to find the rubber was softer and the fit was designed better.

Some of the items we get aren't made as well as the originals were, so it comes down to who the vendors gets their parts from. The forum guys seem to know what vendors sell the good stuff for a specific part. Vendor A has the good X part, where vendor B's same part is of lower quality and frustration is built in trying to install it.

Using a lubrication product may help, but as pointed out, which one?
Has anyone tried using a hairdryer or heat gun to soften the glazing strip?

You might bring the glass/frame/rubber to an auto glass shop. They may have special tools or glazing material that will fit better.

Good luck

 

[WHT]

Hi Patrick,

A good quality tire mounting compound/lubricant might be a solution? It is human safe and wont corrode metal parts.

Regards, Bill

"Excellent for general purpose tire mounting and de-mounting applications. It initially lubricates the rubber when applied; and then dries tacky for adhesion.

Our lubricant paste is designed to assist in mounting rubber tires and tubes on all types of wheels. It is fortified with rust inhibitors to provide protection against metal corrosion. This mild formula is worker friendly, and can easily be diluted with water for a spray formula. Pack beads better than any other product due to its excellent adhesion, ultra thick consistency and the fact that it doesn’t separate."

 

[BigGreen]

This one;

BEADBUSTER TIRE MOUNT LUBE from Aircraft Tool Supply

BEADBUSTER TIRE MOUNT LUBE - Our lubricant paste is designed to assist in mounting rubber tires and tubes on all types of wheels. It is fortified with rust inhibitors to provide protection against corrosion of the wheels. This mild formula is worker friendly.

www.aircraft-tool.com

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

With so many options, I decided to take my window to a Auto Glass shop.
It was a 15 minute job and I was t charged.
*The glazing rubber I purchased from a well known supplier is way too thick! The Technician used a thinner glazing he had, (and even gave me a sample), and said the wrong sized material would have never worked because the material must go all the way in the channel and not just partially in.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Update:

Attached are two photos showing the curvature of the front window track compared to the door glass with its metal guide frame attached. On both photos, the door window is placed on the upper and lower halves of the window track. The curvature is definitely different and that could be contributing to my gap of the rear upper part of the window not being close enough to the weatherstripping.

Not sure how to adjust the brass window track, but it can be adjusted, right?

 

[craigshealey3000]

If you have difficulties pressing the glass into the channel with the glazing strip wrapped around the glass edge, it may be because the rubber is too thick or stiff. Example, replacing the rubber seal on the bottom of my windscreen, I found the rubber too stiff and it didn't seem to fit the channel very well. I purchased the same item from another vendor to find the rubber was softer and the fit was designed better.

Some of the items we get aren't made as well as the originals were, so it comes down to who the vendors gets their parts from. The forum guys seem to know what vendors sell the good stuff for a specific part. Vendor A has the good X part, where vendor B's same part is of lower quality and frustration is built in trying to install it.

Using a lubrication product may help, but as pointed out, which one?
Has anyone tried using a hairdryer or heat gun to soften the glazing strip?

You might bring the glass/frame/rubber to an auto glass shop. They may have special tools or glazing material that will fit better.

Good luck

I went to roll up my window on my 67 BJ8 and it shattered, it was bound somewhere. Where do I get a new one? Nothing at Moss, Brit sited were 175 pounds and up for 1 window. I need glazing/rubber for both door windows also. Thanks.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I went to roll up my window on my 67 BJ8 and it shattered, it was bound somewhere. Where do I get a new one? Nothing at Moss, Brit sited were 175 pounds and up for 1 window. I need glazing/rubber for both door windows also. Thanks.

I have been told that there are two manufacturers of tge side windows and one manufacturer produces the better quality window compared to the other one. I do not know more than that and maybe someone will chime in. I keep originals for both sides as spares for a just in case need.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

DOOR GLASS, left

DOOR GLASS, left

mossmotors.com

More $$$ for 'triplex.'

If someone used an off-the-shelf, too-long, pointed sheet metal screw to secure the door pulls it can score the window glass, contributing to shattering. Moss sells the correct screw or, I suppose, you could grind off the tip a sheet metal screw.

314-251 Screw, plate to bows, No. 4 X 3/8" | Moss Motors

314-251 Screw, plate to bows, No. 4 X 3/8"|SCREW, handle to door

mossmotors.com

 

[craigshealey3000]

Thank you! What is the advantage/description of triplex glass?

 

[AUSMHLY]

The aftermarket glass moss sells has a different color tint vs XXX. If I remember correctly, you'll see it at the edge of the glass.
It doesn't have the XXX information on the glass. It's information is in black on the lower area of the glass.

DOOR GLASS, right

DOOR GLASS, right

mossmotors.com

The XXX glass Moss sells, it's information on the upper area of the glass.

DOOR GLASS, Right, Triplex

DOOR GLASS, R/H, TRIPLEX

mossmotors.com

Maybe someone will chime in with information about what factory glass had printed on it, placement and color.
There's also after market glass with no information printed on it.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Triplex Safety Glass - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Looks like triplex used to be a brand, now maybe just a quality level. The OEM (I think) Pilkington windshields are considerably more expensive than the 'no-name' ones; maybe worth a smidge in concours.