TR2/3/3A looking for door latch review

[Frank Canale]

I got an email that The Roadster Factory had body trim on sale. My door latches and strike plates are in bad shape and beyond trying to get them re chromed and patched up. Has anyone used TRF door latch and strike plate. I know they won't be stamped like the original but a little gun shy with parts from the big 3. The pair driver and passenger come in at around $150 with shipping. Any reviews or other suggestions are always appreciated. Frank

 

[Graham H]

The springs in the door latches are a bit strong which makes them a bit sharp to close but otherwise, they were ok. The striker plates have the screw holes in the wrong place and don't line up with the thread plate in the B pillar so they were useless also I think from memory the attachment screws are phillips head and the countersink doesn't fit very nice in the plate so unless they have changed in the last 10 years I would try and resurrect the old ones.

Graham

 

[auprichard]

I have bought several over the years- all from TRF - and I don't remember having an issue with the screws lining up. The one thing you need to be prepared for is to bend the lips on the striker plate to accommodate the latch.

 

[sp53]

I have never purchased new. I have bought whole doors on line with good door hardware hinges, door top capping and latches for 100.00 plus I have seen kinda nice striker plates on line for like 20.00—but again the tr3 parts are getting fewer and fewer on line, and sometimes the sellers have things they do not advertise, but that is a slippery slope. I have sent them a messages. The new ones do shine better
steve

 

[ckeithjordan]

I used new door strikers and plates from TRF. John Durant (CJD) wrote them up in his forum TR2 bodywork treatise, so I followed his advice and reduced the spring strength. He removed a couple of turns, whereas I used a softer spring from the hardware store. It made closing the doors much easier, without slamming them. You may also have to bend the "ears" on the rear door latch to get them to smoothly engage the striker-dovetail. I used stainless countersunk slotted screws, not phillips head, for originality's sake.

 

[sp53]

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Frank here is a later door with hinges and latch and top piece. It might sound crazy for 159.00- but I find having the extra and original stuff helpful later down the road. plus it is Washington state part. I have never been to the shop or know him but he is always on line

 

[Frank Canale]

Thank you Steve, I have already rebuilt my door frames, made new door skins, and worked on the hinges. I think I am going to go down the rabbit hole and see how finding these parts turns out. I am a sucker for new old stock parts. I have located a passenger side new old stock latch and have purchased it. It did not cost much more than a reproduction Now on to locating the driver side. If anyone knows of a new old stock driver side latch I am in the market for one. Frank

 

[sp53]

Me to Frank I am totally into NOS; I even like the boxes.